In Barranquilla, the Land of Shakira, the Food Scene Don’t Lie

In a culinary world starved for new playgrounds of gastronomy, Barranquilla is turning heads for reasons other than its most famous resident. The hometown of Shakira is in the midst of telling a food story that is divine in its own right.

Championed by Manuel (Mane) Mendoza, a talented young chef driven to bring the spotlight to his city, Barranquilla is on a culinary ascent worth watching. At the root of the story is the Colombian city’s geography. It has played a pivotal role in its politics, culture, and heritage, including Shakira’s own. As the primary port to the Caribbean Sea, Barranquilla developed into a centre for trade in the 19th century, making it one of the most prosperous locales in the western part of South America.

Key to its economy was access to international markets. Immigrant entrepreneurs, notably from Lebanon, arrived and established businesses in textiles and manufacturing that led to large shipments of finished goods returning to Europe and Asia. It’s estimated that up to 50,000 Syro-Lebanese migrated to Colombia, the majority of whom entered at Barranquilla’s port. Among the arrivals were Shakira’s paternal grandparents, who came after initially moving to New York. They were part of the Lebanese expat community that influenced Barranquilla’s development of its art, culture, and cuisine.

Flavours from the Middle Eastern nation are predominant in the gastronomy in Barranquilla. Even among other ethnicities in the city, foods like kaftas, labneh sauces, and roasted and stuffed grape leaves are among the favourites. They sit congruously next to dishes you would expect to find in a South American country: fried plantains, cassava balls, and pungent and flavourful rice. And, most uniquely, are harmonious blends of the two, such as empanadas that could be stuffed with eggplant or spicy versions of kibbeh — the national dish of Lebanon, which are dumplings formed with bulghur wheat and minced meat.

Bringing all of these tastes of Barranquilla to the forefront is Mendoza, who has landed his eponymous restaurant, Manuel, on the ranking of Latin America’s 50 Best and followed it with Emiliano, a fun-loving casual restaurant named after his young son. He is keen to follow in the footsteps of Harry Sasson, the pioneer of fine dining in Bogota who got his culinary start in Vancouver, and Alvaro Clavijo, the groundbreaking chef of El Chato, currently the top-rated restaurant in South America and a magnet for connoisseurs to Colombia’s capital city.

MORE COLOMBIA: El Chato Marvels

“I always saw Harry as an inspiration. He is a person who is very important in what he has accomplished as a chef and restaurant owner,” Mendoza says. “I have been friends with Alvaro for more than five years now. I like that we are working together to show Colombia as a different country than people might think. He wants to show the real Colombia in what he does at El Chato and I want to do the same. To show Colombia through the way it is here in Barranquilla.”

He launched Manuel in 2021, moving into restaurant ownership after cooking in different kitchens for 15 years. Set in a stunning mansion on one of Barranquilla’s most historic streets in the El Prado neighbourhood, Manuel delivers everything you would want in a fine-dining experience. The service is impeccable, the cocktail list is novel, the wine list is carefully curated, and the food is truly memorable.

Highlights of my tasting menu in April included: Plantain stuffed with lobster, sorghum taco with beef tongue and tangerine lemon, fish kofta with pickled mustard seeds, and pork belly in a luscious sauce of green chili and cashews.

Mendoza’s inventive dishes incorporate fine-dining techniques, an understanding of cooking with fire, and — most importantly — a balance of flavours in each course. The primary ingredients don’t get lost among the sauces or accompanying items on the plate. The pork belly was buttery soft and sweet, which the heat in the chili balanced and the texture of the cashews augmented.

Once I tasted his food, I understood why Mendoza is gaining attention. After spending time with him and understanding his devotion to both his craft and his city, I also realized he’s still only at the beginning of his gastronomy career. Though youthful and soft spoken, Mendoza is determined to put Barranquilla on the global culinary map. His hometown gives him plenty to work with, whether it be ingredients or a unique heritage of colonialism and immigration that makes its flavours worthy of seeking out.

Where Else to Eat in Barranquilla

Celia: Chef and owner Carolina Asmar masterfully blends Caribbean ingredients with Middle Eastern recipes and classic South American flavours. A prime example is the sea bass ceviche with toasted coconut and sour guava. It’s delicate and complex at the same time, with the sweetness of the tender fish shining through. Coconut is replete on the menu as Asmar uses the Caribbean staple in rice, meat, and fish dishes, tying the diner to Barranquilla’s port location.

A bright space graced with sunlight from a long bank of windows, the restaurant’s setting of elegance and amiability matches its delightful cuisine.

Explore the Art World of Barranquilla

A true gastronomic scene needs an arts component to bring further attention to the city’s history and modern culture. Barranquilla artist Andrés Ribón is to the city’s arts scene what Mendoza is to its food: young, driven, creative, and highly talented. Gaining recognition around the world for his sculptures that use reclaimed materials and evoke thought-provoking images of modern life, such as the physical loneliness that is amplified by digital connection, Ribón brings a focus on contemporary issues to his art. It resonates both globally and locally. As acclaim for his work grows, he hopes he can draw more attention to his hometown.

“I believe in the city and I love the city. The same way Manuel shows the passion for food, I focus on my passion for art. Through artwork and food and music, people start to know more about my culture and the city, too,” Ribón says.

Barranquilla has relied on the notoriety of its two most famous residents — Shakira and actress Sofia Vergara (who also has a giant statue on the city’s malecón) — for its profile, but the destination is flourishing for other reasons. It’s home to the second-largest carnival in the world (after Rio de Janeiro’s famous spectacle) and is lauded for its calmer, more relaxed experience than tourist-heavy Cartagena, which is a two-hour car ride away. With the increased noteworthiness of its fine arts and culinary arts, the city is ready to showcase more of its star power.

Note: Vacay.ca occasionally features content from outside of Canada that our editors believe will be of interest to readers. In this article, Managing Editor Adrian Brijbassi ventures to Barranquilla in Colombia to profile a chef raising the stature of the city’s culinary scene. No organization reviewed the article before it was published.