Small-town Charms and Refined Luxury in Ontario’s Prince Edward County

During the last decade, Prince Edward County, a collection of revitalized towns and villages located on the northeastern shorelines of Lake Ontario, has earned the moniker, “The Hamptons of Canada” — not only by tourists but also international publications. Once known as a quiet beach and rural fishing area, the region has seen explosive growth in tourism, often in the form of affluent Torontonians and Montrealers (it is about a 2.5-hour drive from the former and 3.5 hours from the latter). The proliferation of luxury boutique hotels, high-end farm-to-table cuisine, proximity to sandy beaches and 35-plus wineries has made it, at first blush, an easy comparison to the renowned summer escape for New York’s elite.

I have mixed feelings when a Canadian destination is referred to as the “[fill in the blank] of Canada” (think: “Toronto, the New York of Canada,” or “Winnipeg: the Chicago of the North!”). On the plus side, giving the locale that kind of a nickname provides an instant frame of reference to would-be visitors, and in turn a possible boost in tourism. On the other hand, such a comparison results in diluting the uniquely Canadian characteristics of the destination, and the chance to forge a genuine identity of its own.

So when I visited PEC or “The County,” as it is colloquially known, I attempted to pay special attention to the culture and galleries to learn what made the area more than “Hamptons Lite”. I started by choosing arguably the most Canadian of all the lovely boutique hotels in the area, the Drake Devonshire in Wellington. (This property would be well-known to devotees of Toronto’s original hipster hotel, the Drake, located in the West Queen West neighbourhood and a hub for local artists and live music.)

Built in 2014 (with its smaller motel property, the Drake Motor Inn, just down the road built a few years later), the “Drake-by-the-Lake” pays homage to local artists along with the local environment. The property melds a thoughtfully restored 1800’s iron foundry building with modern additions. Immediately upon entering, I felt the “Drake-ness” I had come to know and love at the original property in Toronto. There was a gallery of contemporary art and murals on the walls. The familiar vintage photo booth and a micro version of the Drake General Store — a lifestyle concept store in Toronto that sells cool Canadiana and the latest designs in quirky trinkets. All the guest rooms are designed with quirkiness and individual style of local artisans.

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In the dining room, I surveyed the menu, which included a local wine selection and dishes like caviar and fried chicken (with pickled onions and crème fraiche), fennel salad with citrus segments, fisherman’s pie (poached salmon, shrimp, whitefish, potatoes and bechamel sauce), along with the famous Drake Burger and fries. I sampled a delicious corn chowder and a very fresh beet salad. Later, I made my way to The Glass Box (as the name suggests, a large space with floor-to-ceiling windows) provides a panoramic view of Lake Ontario and Lane Creek, where a band was playing. (Speaking of live acts, I would try taking in a show at this year’s summer concert series at the District at Base 31, where iconic Canadian acts like Blue Rodeo, Sam Roberts, and the Second City comedy troupe are scheduled to perform.)

It is impossible to cram all that PEC has to offer visitors into one weekend and the once staid region continues to buzz with hype. It is now well-known to oenophiles and foodies; purchasing advance passes to Sandbanks Provincial Park is advisable as the beaches are often at capacity. Amalgamated into a single municipality in 1998, The County is a collection of towns and villages. There is a lot going on in the three most prominent ones. Picton is the largest in PEC with shops, restaurants, and local theatre. Bloomfield is the quaint village with smaller boutiques, galleries, and bakeries. Wellington, where I stayed, is the lakeside village filled with some of the area’s top restaurants and more interesting art galleries.

I began with the self-guided art walk at the Drake and learned about some of the notable stops on the lengthy PEC Arts Trail. Contemporary and fine art can be viewed at Oeno Gallery in Bloomfield, which has a sculptural garden and a historic exhibit featuring work by members of the quintessentially Canadian Group of Seven, well known for landscape paintings. The Andara Gallery, also in Bloomfield, features modern works, digital art, and ceramics.

Boutique shopping is another way to get to know creators, such as at Country Rust (open weekends), a cool vintage store that sells original artwork, clothing, and curiosities. Anice Jewellery in Bloomfield bills itself as a “life-size jewellery box” specializing in vintage and custom-made pieces.

Has PEC become a playground for the rich? Perhaps. Is it an upscale destination that still holds a lot of pride in its Canadian identity? Most definitely.

More About Prince Edward County

Where to Stay: Along with the Drake Devonshire, PEC has a growing list of trendy boutique hotels. They include June Motel and the Royal Hotel in Picton, and Wander the Resort in Bloomfield.

Where to Dine: The dining scene in PEC features memorable cuisine ranging from farm-to-table meals at Theia in Picton to La Condesa Concina Mexicana in Wellington and Stella’s Eatery, a rural restaurant whose high-end menu sources ingredients from an array of farms. The county is also home to celebrated Canadian chef and cookbook author Jamie Kennedy. Kennedy was appointed as a Member of the Order of Canada in 2010 for his pioneering role in promoting organic, sustainable, and locally sourced foods — a value that seems to resonate with many restauranteurs in PEC.