Manoir Hovey’s Young Chef Is Thriving in the Eastern Townships

Tucked away in the Eastern Townships, between lush woods and a shimmering lake, Manoir Hovey is about 90 minutes east of Montreal and 20 minutes north of the Vermont border.

Rustic and elegant, luxurious yet cozy, this chic, venerable Relais & Chateaux inn bundles rich heritage, tranquil atmosphere, stunning scenery, and a dining experience worthy of its AAA/CAA Five Diamond accreditation.

Initially built in 1900 as a summer home and turned into a hotel in the 1950s, the property was purchased in 1979 by the Stafford family, who had long ties with the hospitality sector. Over the decades, they have invested in, added to, and modernized the property, while maintaining the warmth and charm of a superb country inn.

In 2018, while recruiting for a new chef, the company flew in potential candidates from across the continent and abroad. Of the six contestants, “Chef Alexandre Vachon had the best tasting,” said Jason Stafford, Manoir Hovey’s managing director and co-owner. ”The others were good, but this young man came across as the right person at the right time We saw a clear respect for the classic origins of French cuisine with the ability to modernize without losing the essence of the dishes.” Vachon was hired him on the spot to take over the property’s flagship restaurant, Le Hatley.

Seven years later, as chef de cuisine, he continues to delight both the stakeholders who hired him and their guests.

Vacay.ca: What for you is great about the Eastern Townships, particularly North Hatley?

Alexandre Vachon: The countryside is beautiful and the manoir is a hidden gem. Its image has not changed over the 100 years. As a family, we feel super lucky to be living in a small town where everyone knows everyone. It’s a safe place where you don’t need to lock your doors. It’s a great playground for our three boys to enjoy the lake and play hockey.

Vacay.ca: And what for you is special about cheffing at Manoir Hovey?

AV: We have cooks from all over the world. There is a lot of culture in the kitchen and a lot of different experiences, so we all grow together. It’s the best possible environment.

Vacay.ca: Describe the cuisine for our readers.

AV: It’s classic cuisine, using in-season, local ingredients. We keep it simple, picking one ingredient to stand out on its own. But we are always trying to find that new little ingredient to replace traditional ones.

Vacay.ca: What different ingredients did you try this fall?

AV: We tried a lot of sour cherry recipes along with lingonberries. Sweetgrass is one of our favourites. It’s like Tonka bean but it’s a local hay that when dry, it smells like vanilla. It grows in certain regions and we are lucky to have someone who harvests it for us. We use it instead of vanilla.

Vacay.ca: How has the culinary scene changed since you arrived in 2018? What are you doing differently now?

AV: I am more confident now because seven years ago I was in a new place with new people, finding my way and I was all over the place. As I gained confidence, I became more precise. We work with the produce more, extracting liquid which gives more depth to the plate. There is also more story behind each dish. For example, if we use an artichoke, we use the root, and work with the leaves to give more depth. It looks super simple, but a lot goes into it. We have extended beyond the main core. We do everything in-house now — our own bread and butter and ricotta cheese, for example.

Vacay.ca: You discovered your calling at 15 years old, working in a small restaurant in the town where you were raised. What was that like?

AV: I grew up in St. Albert, a small, mainly Francophone town, 20 minutes southeast of Ottawa. I had a summer job as a dishwasher at a small Italian restaurant where everything was made from scratch. I actually enjoyed the adrenaline and the camaraderie of the kitchen. I love playing hockey and the kitchen was like being a part of the team. I liked the highs and the lows, going through so much in one night.

Vacay.ca: Since then, where has your career taken you? How did you go from a dishwasher in a small-town restaurant to the chef de cuisine at a Five Diamond restaurant in a Relais & Chateaux property?

AV: At first, it was just a job. Then I wanted to travel where I could continue to cook. I was lucky enough to study with a passionate chef at culinary school in Ottawa who said, “You’re not going to stay in that Italian place, you’re going to work in a big hotel.” Which I did, and really enjoyed the hospitality aspect. But I became restless and I felt unfulfilled. After several moves to fine-dining establishments in western Canada and Australia, then Montreal I yearned for the countryside and a lake where I could fish and camp like I did as a kid growing up. When I learned about a small hotel near Montreal looking for a chef, I interviewed with the owners, followed with a tasting for eight people. It went well and I liked the hotel — with its rustic, old-school feel that was evolving nicely with a modern touch. I uprooted my family from Montreal and started the next week.

Vacay.ca: You say you cook with your memories. What do you mean by that?

AV: Growing up, my grandfather was a cook with a big garden. He grew the food that he and my grandmother ate. I look back and that’s what I want to give to my kids. We have a little greenhouse and garden. I want them to understand that the carrot on their plate required care and attention during the three months it grew.

Vacay.ca: Who inspires you?

AV: My kids inspire me because they are bright and they’re quick and they ask questions that make me think. Most of the chefs I worked with were role models. Daniel Boulud in Montreal showed me how to bring out the best in people, in a nice but not a bossy way. Managing 30 cooks is a challenge. What I like about it is you see humans evolve and if I can teach them, hopefully they will become chefs. It’s like spreading the good news.

MORE MANOIR HOVEY: Impeccable Dining

Vacay.ca: If you had a tip to give to an aspiring chef what would it be?

AV: Taste. Taste. Taste. Enjoy pleasing people. That’s your job.

Vacay.ca: And if you had a tip to give to a home cook what would it be?

AV: After cooking meat, let it rest before serving. If you are cooking in a crockpot, let it sit overnight. The next day it will be twice as good.

Vacay.ca: What keeps you busy and happy when you’re not cooking here?

AV: In the winter, we play a lot of hockey. In summer, my family likes to be on the water with our boat. It’s a great way to de-stress. We picnic a lot.

Vacay.ca: When you were young you wanted to travel. Is that urge still there?

AV: It is but I don’t want to go to see a places like the Taj Mahal. Now, I want to go for the food — to see what people are cooking and eat, eat, eat. Eventually, I expect to travel for other reasons.

Vacay.ca: What is at the top of your bucket list for a food trip?

AV: Italy because that’s the food culture I like the most. Super simple ingredients but the best ingredients. Not just any tomato, but the best tomato. Food is such an important part of the cultural history. It’s a foodie’s heaven.

Vacay.ca: Chefs are notorious for moving about the world. How long do you see yourself staying here?

AV: This is home and I am here to stay.

Vacay.ca: What is on the menu tonight that is a particular favourite of yours?

AV: Halibut. We are at the end of the season for Nova Scotia halibut. I pair it with artichoke and poached cherry tomatoes, shallots stuffed with halibut mousseline and wild pickled garlic aioli.

Vacay.ca: What should guests expect when they come for dinner?

AV: We like to have surprises and we try to continually top the experience.

MORE ABOUT MANOIR HOVEY

Location: 575 Rue Hovey, North Hatley, Quebec (see map below)
Website: www.manoirhovey.com
Menu Prices at Le Hatley: The seven-course Discovery Menu costs $195 and there is a vegetarian option for $165 (add $70 for wine pairing). A three-course menu is available for $125.