Ugly Duckling Provisions Raises the Culinary Beauty of Victoria

Like many other residents of British Columbia, Corbin Mathany arrived from eastern parts of Canada and couldn’t quite believe his luck. After growing up in Southern Ontario and spending the early years of his culinary career in Niagara-on-the-Lake and Stratford, he followed a friend to the west coast. Then immediately and enthusiastically embraced what he found.

“This place is so magical,” the chef says of his adopted home. “Once I saw coastal B.C. and explored the landscapes around Victoria, there was no going back. I’ve been really obsessed with this place since getting here. It’s almost like because I came from outside of here, I see how much it has to offer, compared to a lot of other places in the country. It’s often overlooked by locals because it’s all they’ve known. But for me I find it incredible, still.”

Mathany has called Victoria home for more than a decade, working in notable restaurants in the city and elsewhere on Vancouver Island. In late 2023, he made the bold move to launch his own venture. He secured a historic location in Chinatown and debuted Ugly Duckling Provisions, an homage to what he calls “the overlooked ingredients, which with a lot of love and care can be transformed into a swan.”

The philosophy goes for the region, too. “Vancouver Island and Victoria are overlooked in the food world, kind of in the same way as a beef tendon might be. But there’s a lot there that you can work with once you give it a chance,” the chef-owner of the restaurant says.

Mathany, in turn, has asked diners to give him a chance to show what he can achieve. The results are fantastic, a showcase of his sensitive touch on the plate, in the menu planning, and in his conscientiousness for the restaurant’s area.

“Last thing I wanted to do was Disney-fy this Chinese homage to the neighbourhood. I was cognizant of that. But at the same time my partner is from Taiwan so I have been engaging with that food for years. It felt natural and making things that trigger nostalgia in her is also satisfying for me,” he says about the Asian flavours that often show up in his dishes.

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A notable one is a seared foie gras from Quebec that arrives tucked into a pillow-soft bao bun. The dessert on my visit was a Toasted Rice Panna Cotta with glazed apple and kinako (a soybean flour), which exemplified both the Asian love of rice and of less sweet fare. The petit fours were an apropos fortune cookie, another playful yet respectful nod to the cultural heritage of Victoria’s iconic district.

“Last thing I want to be accused of is being appropriative. But I also want to reference the history of the neighbourhood and remind people they’re in this place that has that history,” Mathany says.

What started as a humble enterprise with both a la carte and tasting menu options has become a confident restaurant that is regularly full. Diners arrive for the luxury cuisine and they’re not the only ones who have come knocking on Ugly Duckling’s door.

Culinary talents have entered, providing European experience that enhances what comes out of the kitchen and its small bar. The cocktails are created by the sous chef from France who utilizes British Columbia craft spirits in the Ugly Duckling concoctions. Notable distillers such as Sheringham, Stillhead, and DeVine are featured on the menu, which also has drinks with an Asian influence.

The staffing additions have boosted the sophistication and elegance of the experience, and allowed Mathany to make a significant shift. Since last summer, the restaurant is now only offering one option, a splendid six-course tasting menu.

“Nobody had a clue what Ugly Duckling was or was going to be about when we opened. I didn’t think we were going to be tasting-menu only. I didn’t think we would have the option to do that in Victoria, honestly,” he says. “But I think a lot of people here are more ready for the type of restaurant we are than I anticipated. Victoria is still a pretty determinedly casual town. They like sophistication and ambition in the food but they wouldn’t maybe necessarily go for it if we had the atmosphere that corresponded to that. As casual as people here are there is an appetite for elevated experiences and elevated restaurants. That end of the spectrum has been really taking off over the last several years.”

Ugly Duckling joins fine-dining success stories such as Marilena, Janevca, and the Courtenay Room. Like those establishments, Mathany has merged his passion for haute cuisine with a desire to champion Vancouver Island’s suppliers, broadening the Victoria area’s culinary might. That’s a beautiful thing, too.

MORE ABOUT UGLY DUCKLING PROVISIONS

Location: 543 Fisgard St, Victoria, British Columbia (see map below)
Menu Price Range: The six-course tasting menu starts at $110 per person, a reasonable price.
Website: www.uglyducklingrestaurant.ca

Where to Stay in Victoria

Coast Victoria Hotel and Marina: Recently renovated, Coast is a quality three-star property on James Bay, about 20 minutes by foot to Chinatown and Ugly Duckling. The rooms are spacious and several have views of the water. The toilets are an attraction in themselves with Japanese-style features and functions that will entice giggles. Location: 146 Kingston Street, Victoria, British Columbia. Room Rates: A weekend night in March, based on a recent search of the hotel’s booking engine, starts at $201. As a bonus the hotel has two electric vehicle chargers (one dedicated to Tesla) that are free to use.

 

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Getting There: BC Ferries has frequent sailings daily from the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal in the Greater Vancouver Area to Swartz Bay, which is 30 minutes by car from downtown Victoria. Foot passengers can board and connect by bus to Victoria.