Chef and co-owner Adriano Cappuzzello showcases the unique bread he serves at recently opened Revé. The bread originates from his hometown in Sicily and features Niagara ingredients. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)
For all the European influences at Revé, the feeling that the new Niagara-on-the-Lake restaurant leaves you with is definitively Canadian. With a culinary program headed by a pair of immigrants who met while working at Locanda Don Serafino, an icon in Sicily that had two Michelin stars at the time, Revé presents diners with an outstanding experience that far exceeds the expectations of its location.
Housed within a strip mall that’s more than a kilometre from the town’s bustling Queen Street, Revé has the hallmarks of an endearing Canadian small-business story: passion, friendship, vision, and belief in your own talent. After stepping through a red curtain that foreshadowed the elegance of the culinary journey to follow, I was taken immediately by the fire. It is the focal point of chef Adriano Cappuzzello’s cuisine and the hearth is in clear view of guests when they enter the small restaurant.
The scallop course at Revé is served with French toast and beurre blanc, with the main ingredient sourced from the Bay of Fundy. It can be enjoyed at the chef’s counter in front of the blazing flame that does so much of the cooking at the Niagara-on-the-Lake newcomer. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)
The fire is beguiling. It ripples and cracks as Cappuzzello works over it to roast and sear the primary ingredients in most of his dishes. The highlights include grilled eggplant wrapped entirely in gold leaf and topped with parmigiano sauce that could have been delivered straight from the Old Country. Called the “Gold of Sicily”, the dish connotes the importance of eggplant to the Italian island with its lavish inclusion of the precious metal. The generous amount of sauce can be soaked up with the incredible accompaniment, slices of Scaccia Ragusana, which is a version of focaccia from Cappuzzello’s hometown. Cappuzzello fills his dough with Always June Gem lettuce hearts that is wilted on the fire, plus parsley and garlic. The flour is an unrefined, unbleached, ancient grain choice from K2 Milling in Ontario. It’s an attention-grabbing course that stamps the intention of Revé and Cappuzzello to be more than a local fine-dining restaurant. The team’s desire is to be a culinary destination that showcases Sicilian recipes and regional ingredients at their best.
The “Canadian plaid” plate is among the dishware that Revé sources from an acclaimed artisan in Sicily. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)
Later in the tasting menu, Cappuzzello serves Quebec venison beneath a zesty cracker and a frothy cream-coloured black garlic custard called a zabalone. The venison is tender, grilled to succulence, while the custard adds a level of elegance and originality. Revé’s quality sourcing is displayed in the Beef Bavette course, served with a Sicilian potato crepe on the bottom and black truffles on top. The beef arrives from Heatherbrae Farms in the Waterloo Region and Cappuzzello says Revé is the only restaurant with that product direct from the farm.
“The first week we opened we used everything from one animal. The marrow was used in our bone broth. I couldn’t believe how fresh and pure the animal was,” Cappuzzello says.
Revé in Niagara-on-the-Lake specializes in pasta and cooking with fire. Both are on display in the fettuccine course with grilled Newfoundland squid. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)
While cooking with fire is at the core of the Revé experience, Cappuzzello also delivers a delicious beef tartare enveloped in a roasted garlic ricotta and pasta dishes that are made in front of the chef’s counter, which will have you salivating as you watch. The fettuccine is served with Newfoundland squid while rigatoni comes with local pheasant and lobster mushroom. The dishes demonstrate the variety of Revé’s offerings and the range of Cappuzzello’s abilities.
Along with the high-end cuisine, Revé provides distinctive touches that are signatures of the upper echelons of fine dining. The plates — including a beautiful “Canadian plaid” selection used for the Beef Bavette — are custom made by the same esteemed Sicilian artist who Cappuzzello met at Locanda Don Serafino. An eye-catching section of the ceiling was hand-crafted by the Revé team to resemble a mossy garden.
Revé’s Adriano Cappuzzello uses his fine-dining skills to elevate Niagara-on-the-Lake’s culinary scene. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)
Most impressively, the wine service is exceptional. Nicole Pisarenko, Cappuzzello’s wife and business partner, shows her skills as a sommelier with a selection of wines from Sicily and Ontario that not only pair harmoniously with the food but opens the eyes to the quality of wines in those regions. Of particular note is how Revé finds gems in its neighbourhood. Ontario wines have a reputation of being underwhelming but Pisarenko serves some little-known stars, including On Seven Estate Winery’s Chardonnay and 180 Estate Winery’s Sparkling Riesling icewine. The viticulture stars, though, are the Sicilian selections from Al-Cantara winery such as the Lu Veru Piaciri, an Etna Rosso, and the Luci Luci Etna Bianco.
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The wines round out a dining experience that brings even more warmth and sophistication to one of Canada’s most lovely towns. The Revé team, which includes partners Anna Katherine and Kevin Gillingham, believes the restaurant’s concept will find appeal among residents and visitors to Niagara-on-the-Lake. The owners are four friends with complementary talents in the hospitality industry and a desire to celebrate the agriculture produced in their region of Ontario.
That sensibility to be locally supportive and internationally rooted is at the core of so much of Canadian dining and culture. When they launched their business, they decided that one word best conveyed their aspiration. Revé is a play on rêve, the French word for “dream.”
“Our dream is to bring back traditional hospitality in a modern way with some fresh twists,” says Katherine, the general manager. “We’re not chasing the ‘wine country default.’ Our concept is built with small Niagara farms and European inspiration.”
In a way, that ethos makes Revé quintessentially Canadian.
MORE ABOUT VISITING NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE
The fire is central to the cooking techniques at Revé. (Photo courtesy of Revé)
Revé’s Location: 242 Mary Street, Unit 4, Niagara-on-the-Lake (see map below). The restaurant has its own on-site bakery and cafe that it operates as Aperitivo by Revé before dinner starts. Reservations: Visit the restaurant’s website to view the menu and book your table.
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Where to Stay: Niagara-on-the-Lake has a number of fantastic and historic boutique hotels. It also has an exceptional large, sprawling hotel that has an acclaimed spa and a unique connection to Canadian athletics. The White Oaks Resort and Spa was founded in the 1960s as a facility for racquet sports. It evolved into a full-service hotel that is popular for conferences and weddings, and it still retains its tennis and squash heritage.
White Oaks Resort and Spa is a popular spot for weddings and is a good spot to base your stay while exploring the Niagara Region. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)
Not only are there several courts that guests and local residents can book, the hotel is also home to the Ontario Squash Hall of Fame. Still family-owned, White Oaks’ founder and squash enthusiast can often be seen at the property. The resort features a three-level fitness centre that is among the best-equipped in Canada and offers to chance to train with tennis and squash pros. After your exercise session, the property’s spa will replenish you.
