Pristine Landscapes and Stunning Hiking Trails Define Lake O’Hara

Lake O’Hara Lodge , Yoho National Park, British Columbia, BC, hiking, photography, nature

A hiker crosses along a precipitous ledge overlooking British Columbia’s Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park. The area was named after Lieutenant-Colonel Robert O’Hara, who explored it in 1887 following a recommendation from a surveyor. (Gerry Feehan photo for Vacay.ca)

A friend described Lake O’Hara Lodge in Yoho National Park as the most beautiful place she’d ever been. I have done a fair share of travel to earth’s exotic and amazing places, so my expectations for our three-day visit to O’Hara were tempered with a smidgen of skepticism.

The lodge, accessible only by bus up a dusty gravel road, is tucked high in the mountains west of Lake Louise, on the British Columbia side of the Rocky Mountains. We were fortunate to secure a stay. Demand during the short summer season necessitates booking a year in advance — and priority is given to repeat clients, many of whom travel from far distances to enjoy the natural beauty of the destination.

The drive into O’Hara was unimpressive; a bumpy ride on a school bus with six friends, plus a bunch of solemn strangers, all of us overburdened for the short stay with luggage, backpacks, hiking poles, and superfluous personal items (in my case, ineffective fishing gear). Eleven kilometres later we turned the last dusty corner. The lodge and lake appeared in timeless beauty. Smiles erupted at the sight of rough-hewn timbers meeting cerulean waters. While the staff discreetly unloaded our bags we were briefed in the rustic lobby and offered a pack lunch for our first day-hike. Camelbacks filled, our best lederhosen donned, off we went awandering.

A private cabin at Lake O’Hara Lodge overlooks the namesake waterway. These original 1920s cabins sit on the edge of the lake’s turquoise waters. (Gerry Feehan photo for Vacay.ca)

One of our companions, a judge, is not renowned for his hiking prowess — he’s better suited to meting out justice in a hushed courtroom. But as a veteran of Lake O’Hara — and the one who was able to finagle rooms for four couples during peak season — he was the natural choice to lead our troop up the steep paths and along the precipitous ledges of O’Hara’s vast trail network. We skirted the lake’s north shore and began the climb up Oesa Lake Trail. After an hour we reached an alpine meadow painted with delicate yellow columbine, fiery-red paintbrush and shaggy green anemones, aka “hippies on a stick.” As we gained elevation the summer air became cooler. Lake Oesa was still dotted with orphaned chunks of ice sailing randomly in the wind. Spruce pollen weaved intricate patterns along the lake’s frigid shores. At every turn a mind-blowing vista opened before us. But always far below lay Lake O’Hara, an artist’s palette in aquamarine, the lodge a tiny wooden appendage at its shore.

After tackling 16 kilometres of the toughest O’Hara could throw at us, we descended steeply to her cobalt shores and the luxury of a hot shower, a cold beverage, and one of the better meals I’ve had the pleasure of sticking a knife and fork into.

After dinner the sated guests retired to the common room. Giant logs crackled in the open fireplace. Comradery ensued. I uncased my trusty ukulele. My buddy grabbed his guitar. He isn’t usually shy about sharing his musical talents but on this occasion I had to cajole him into playing. His reticence vanished after our first tune, when the whole lodge clapped approval and started shouting requests. Eventually the accolades turned to yawns. It had been a long day.

The scenery at Lake O’Hara Lodge in Yoho National Park makes this window look like a painting. The park’s name, “Yoho,” is a Cree word meaning “magnificent,” and it was established in 1886 as a UNESCO World Heritage site. (Gerry Feehan photo for Vacay.ca)

O’Hara provides plenty of recreational options: One can tackle an oxygen-depriving climb along an alpine ridge, saunter slowly around the lake’s pristine perimeter, or just sit in the lodge and knit — admiring a view that evokes a Group of Seven painting. But sitting and knitting is not my forte. Having dropped a stitch or two in time, I’ve now cast off that pursuit. I was here for the great outdoors, to experience the handiwork of Lawrence Grassi, park warden at Lake O’Hara during the 1950s. He designed, built and for many years singlehandedly maintained the Alpine Circuit Trail. Generations of hikers have enjoyed his skillfully arranged rockwork. An elaborate staircase of stone skirting Ohara’s Victoria Falls is one of his masterful constructions. A simple plaque on the rock face beneath the quiet falls honours Grassi’s remarkable achievements.

For the second day we chose a simpler ramble — still longish but involving less altitude than the famous Oesa route. As we descended into a lush valley and neared a narrow bridge, a rumble of thunder enveloped us from above. I looked up, puzzled. The sky was uniform blue. But on the summit high above us Odaray Glacier was calving. A fresh blue gash scarred the gigantic grey mass. A torrent of meltwater and ice was erupting violently into the watershed. We hustled across a flimsy log crossing and safely up into the forest just as the flood roared through.

A business meeting with a smiling marmot in her office. A marmot is a large, burrowing, rodent characterized by their stocky build and bushy tails. They are known for their distinct “whistle” used to warn others of danger. (Gerry Feehan photo for Vacay.ca)

After regathering ourselves, we stopped for lunch on a rocky ledge overlooking Lake McArthur. While the others sat and rested their tired feet, contemplating what we’d just witnessed, I stood vigilant, acutely attuned to the surroundings. I was intent on photographing the rare hoary marmot. The elusive mammal lives a solitary life tucked amongst craggy alpine rocks.

As I scanned the distant horizon the judge shouted, “Gerry, look out for your trail mix.” I turned my binoculars and was confronted with a nostril-hair close-up of a large blond rodent. The critter was within arm’s reach and marching my way. His long marmot claws and determined look suggested this was a business meeting. I grabbed my pack and scrambled to safety — behind my wife. For the balance of the day I remained at the back of the group — to ensure we weren’t attacked from the flank by a malicious herbivore.

Lake O’Hara’s trails are gorgeous — and intimidating. Visitors will love the views but you may need a strong stomach if heights bother you. (Gerry Feehan photo for Vacay.ca)

A few years ago we bought all the gear required for serious backcountry camping: lightweight sleeping bags, thinsulate mattresses, gas cooker — the whole outdoor shebang. Then we discovered places like Lake O’Hara Lodge, where mountain air and comfort co-mingle; steak, a glass of quality red vino, and a soft bed are the reward for a gruelling day in the alpine.

As for our lady friend’s assessment that Lake O’Hara is the most beautiful place ever? Let’s just say I still respect her opinion. I had better. She’s organizing a trip to Newfoundland this fall. She promises it houses the funniest people on earth. I’ll let you know.