The newly opened Grizzly Bar in Toronto encourages unabashed patriotism — and Canadians are eager to oblige. (Photo courtesy of Grizzly Bar)
“Elbows off the table!” is a lesson in manners taught to children growing up. With origins dating back centuries, keeping ones’ elbows off the table was originally seen as a sign of peace, according to Margaret Visser, author of “The Rituals of Dinner: The Origins, Evolution, Eccentricities, and Meaning of Table Manners.” These rules of dining etiquette are followed in many societies to this day, including here at home. It stands to reason: Canadians are nothing if not polite.
But with today’s geopolitical climate, and more specifically, threats of annexation and tariffs initiated by the current U.S. administration, Canadians are responding with uncharacteristic force. The #ElbowsUp movement — whose name is a nod to hockey legend Gordie Howe’s means of warding off his opponents — is a rallying cry across the nation to support homegrown goods. Whether it is buying products “Made in Canada” or travelling only domestically, the movement has created a resurgence of national pride not seen in generations. It seems fitting then to make note of some prominently Canadian restaurants as well.
Astronaut Chris Hadfield has a cocktail named after him at the Grizzly Bar and has famously taken the stage to sing The Tragically Hip’s “Bobcaygeon”. (Photo courtesy of Grizzly Bar)
Grizzly Bar: Canada’s Most Canadian Bar and Grill opened in the spring as a direct rebuttal to any talk of Canada becoming the 51st state. Walking through the entrance on Queen Street West in Toronto, past the nine-foot inflatable bear outside, you hear the first few chords of “O! Canada.” Once inside you’re greeted by a friendly host who can seat you at the bar, a table or, in my party’s case, a cozy faux cabin booth. The décor cleverly pays homage to our heritage. A canoe mounted on the ceiling. A dancing hologram grizzly bear and photos of stunning cross-country landscapes projected onto the walls. Old episodes of SCTV, Indigenous art, fake snow, and vintage gear of your favourite Canadian sports teams. There is also a wall of fame displaying Canadian heroes, such as musical icons Celine, Shania, Alanis, Neil, and Joni. Speaking of music, the playlists, bingo, and trivia nights are exclusively CanCon (one can never get too much of The Tragically Hip).
Can’t “bear” to watch your favourite hockey team lose on the big screen? Try your hand at shuffleboard or foozball in the games room. Or take part in the “Hoser Olympics” or the #SorryNotSorry Canadian Apology Contest with prizes including a year’s supply of maple syrup.
The Grizzly Bar’s burgers are dressed in Canadian style. (Photo courtesy of Grizzly Bar)
All of the activity sets the stage for a meal that explores the best in Canadian cuisine, a style that caters mainly to carnivores and carb lovers, but there are options for vegans and pescatarians as well. Think Maritime calamari, delicious grilled sourdough bread with maple butter or a selection of poutine for starters, which we only made a dent in. For mains, there is Chinook Chicken wings, Alberta beer burger or the Great Big Sea Fish and Chips. Even with no room for dessert, it would be a crime to miss one (or all) of the Nanaimo Bar a la Mode, Ooey Gooey Butter Tarts, or the Tableside S’moregasbord, where the campfire classic is brought to your table.
The beverage menu features beers, seltzers, and ciders from local breweries, which my guest enjoyed, but I wanted to try a couple of the cocktails. I chose the tasty Bluenose (vodka, blueberry, basil, and seafoam) followed by the experiential “Hadfield,” which comes with headphones to listen to astronaut Chris Hadfied’s rendition of “Space Oddity” while you sip a concoction of spiced rum, Frangelico, Crème de Cacao, espresso ice cream mix, egg whites, and a giant cookie ball at the bottom of the glass. Certainly a memorable drink but it was too rich and creamy even for my sweet tooth. Perhaps next time I’ll go with the classic Grizzly Caesar.
Canadian-themed decor, games, and visuals dominate the Grizzly Bar in downtown Toronto. (Photo courtesy of Grizzly Bar)
After an evening that had us playing our own game of homegrown trivia, we spotted the “Canada’s Not for Sale” hockey jerseys on our way out. A fun piece of memorabilia and helpful if you feel the need to play defence.
Authentic Indigenous Cuisine
At Tea N Bannock, traditional North American Indigenous cuisine has been served to guests since 2012. Located in Toronto’s Leslieville neighbourhood, the restaurant is non-Indigenous owned, bu still serves as a platform for Indigenous chefs and crew with dishes and décor reflecting past and present culture. (The website includes a Land Acknowledgement, something I would love to see more Canadian establishments replicate.)
Bear paws are among the treats at Tea N Bannock that evoke Indigenous culture. (Photo courtesy of Tea N Bannock)
On an unseasonably cold day in May, I felt the need for something warm. Though the popular corn soup was sold out, I started with the traditional Haudenosaunee Three Sisters Soup (corn, beans, and squash) that hit the spot paired with Bannock, the unleavened fried bread staple made from flour, baking powder, salt, and lard, shortening or butter. I continued in the vegetarian vein with the Navajo taco made with mushrooms, beans, sour cream, and salsa, enveloped in a soft-fried shell. Carnivores should try the bison burger or the “Load My Canoe” stew or salmon with wild black rice. Everyone should complete their meal with a Bear Paw (yet more fried dough, this time coated in butter, sugar, and cinnamon) and a traditional medicinal tea (Labrador or Cedar).
Food is available for take-out and there is a selection of gifts (I took home some birch syrup and more tea) but it’s well worth spending time dining in, to soak up the atmosphere, the artwork, and learn more about Canadian heritage.
Fast-food, French-Canadian style
For those short on time but eager to avoid the usual fast-food chains, stop by Nom Nom Nom Poutine, the tiny take-out place at the end of a row of street food stands on Dundas Street West. Owned and operated by a former Montrealer, Nom Nom Nom has been voted as a top place to eat in Toronto by many online outlets and features the classic Quebec dish topped with your choice of bacon, smoked meat, pulled pork, “super dog” style or double or triple cheese. Big enough to share with your friends and neighbours — even those to the south.
