The Glamorous Way to ‘Yurt’ on Vancouver Island

The colour of the water in the sound is a stunning shade of turquoise — looking more Caribbean than west coast. A wispy mist rises from the sea and drifts upward to shroud the surrounding peaks. My wife and I are up at the first blush of morning, sitting out on our yurt’s oceanside deck with a coffee, watching a sea otter floating on its back in the bay, a fish held lovingly between its front paws. A bald eagle sits on the highest branch of a nearby tree, keenly watching, hoping for leftovers. We have been told that dolphins, orcas, and humpback whales also make regular appearances — but not today.

Moutcha Bay Resort is a unique wilderness property tucked away on Vancouver Island’s rugged northwest coast at the mouth of the Conuma River, a 40-minute drive west of Gold River and two hours from Campbell River. Its scenic, sheltered location on Nootka Sound is known for its world-class fishing, spectacular sea kayaking, and wildlife tours.

The resort also boasts new luxurious cedar yurts along the waterfront, which offer expansive panoramic views of Moutcha Bay. Seamlessly blending traditional yurt aesthetics with modern construction techniques, the yurts are not the accommodations of the Mongolian hordes. They have been rather thoughtfully reimagined to provide a soundproof, temperature-controlled environment that offers guests both exceptional comfort and a profound connection to nature. Accommodating up to six guests, they have wrap-around balconies, waterfront decks, fully appointed kitchens, and private barbecues.

Though I would be happy to yurt the whole day away, we have planned a fishing outing in a quest for the wild salmon for which the sound is known. Although the waters in the bay seem calm and serene, we are told by our guide that today, on the open water where we are heading, there is a pretty big blow and rough seas. No worries, he promises, Nootka Marine Adventures’ fleet of Seakeeper-equipped boats features something called gyroscopic stabilization technology, which reduces boat roll by 95%, thus enhancing stability and minimizing motion sickness on choppy waters. Combined with shockwave indoor seats, these boats deliver unparalleled comfort and safety, making them the most modern and luxurious rental fleet on Canada’s west coast.

MORE B.C. RESORTS: Naturally Pacific Shines

We head out in a light rain, warm and dry in the inside comfort of the elegant vessel. Nootka Sound is far and away the largest remote fishing destination on Vancouver Island. It is 65 kilometres (40 miles) across with Nootka Island at its mouth, and almost 56 kilometres (35 miles) long. There are nine inlets, including: Muchalet, below Gold River; Tahsis, leading to the town of the same name; Esperanza, leading to Zeballos; and Moutcha Bay, our home for a few days, next to the Conuma River, and its hatchery that raises chinook, coho, and chum salmon.

Although we got tossed around a bit once we left the sheltered inlets, we managed to stay balanced enough to hook a good-sized chinook. Okay, my wife landed the fish, while my rod bent in the wind and got bounced by the waves but attracted nothing. Still, it was enough, and as I was starting to feel a little like a blended green smoothie in the turbulent waters, we slipped back into the protected waters of the sound, and moored in Friendly Cove, or Yuquot, in the language of the Mowachaht/Muchalaht First Nation. There, we headed out on the stable land to explore a small settlement of around six people, the Williams family of the Mowachaht band and two full-time lighthouse keepers.

There is an Anglican chapel with beautiful stained-glass windows, the lighthouse, and the keepers’ home. We dropped into the workshop of renowned master carver Ahtsik-sta Qwayachiik (Sanford Williams). The welcoming Ahtsik-sta carves authentic pieces from the remote, oceanfront shop using handmade materials scavenged from the beaches. He took the time to give us a quick lesson in totem carving — before discovering that my wood-carving abilities were not much better than my fishing skills.

Parks Canada designated Yuquot a national historic site in 1923 because it is the ancestral home of the Mowachaht people, and the centre of their social, political, and economic world. The area has been continuously occupied for more than 4,300 years. The Mowachaht/Muchalaht, Nuchatlaht, and Ehattesaht First Nations have a rich existence and culture, which is based on whaling, river fishing, hunting, and foraging.

In 1774, the Spanish became the first Europeans to sight the entrance to Nootka Sound, aboard the ship Santiago, captained by Juan Perez. They anchored off Nootka at Estevan Point, and traded with the Indigenous people for furs, but made no landing. Because the Spanish did not actually make it to shore, the British would not acknowledge Spanish sovereignty over the area.

On March 29, 1778, in search of the Northwest Passage, Captain James Cook with two vessels, the Resolution and the Discovery, sailed into Nootka Sound looking for a sheltered bay in which to make repairs. As Cook’s ships arrived, Yuquot community members came out to meet them in canoes. They offered various animal skins for trade, particularly sea otter pelts, along with carvings, spears, and fish hooks. In exchange they wanted knives, chisels, nails, buttons, and any kind of metal. On the rocks at the south end of the island stands a cairn to commemorate Cook’s landing.

After learning about that history and further understanding the people whose territory we were visiting, we headed up Tahis Inlet looking for humpback whales and Steller sea lions. Other wildlife that are known to be spotted in the vicinity include black bears, wolves, and cougars. Those land animals can often be spotted roaming the shoreline and beaches at low tide. We did see marbled murrelets, a small seabird bobbing in the bays, and herds of elk grazing in the waterside meadows. And there were many sea otters, each of which, it seemed to me, had caught a salmon. Darn otters. In spite of my own personal lack of fishing success, it was a great day on the water. My hands may not have been full with fish, but my eyes were more than satisfied with the spectacular scenery of the surrounding mountains and the nature all around.

After returning to our comfortable yurt and ditching our wet-weather gear, we headed to the main resort and the Conuma Grill for a pint of Driftwood Brewery’s Fat Tug and a wood-fired artisan pizza. We swapped fishing tales with the locals. My wife talked about her good fight with the feisty chinook, while I remained kind of quiet.

MORE ABOUT NORTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND

Nootka Marine Adventures: Nootka Marine Adventures operates three fishing resorts. Moutcha Bay Resort is a hidden gem that’s off-the-beaten track and an idyllic escape for those with a love for the outdoors. It offers everything from serviced campsites and lodge suites, to luxurious oceanfront yurts, camping yurts, and chalets. Nootka Sound Resort is a floating, all-inclusive resort moored in the waters of Galiano Bay. Newton Cove Resort in Espinosa Inlet is accessed by boat or floatplane.

The Anglers Academy: By teaching sustainable angling techniques and fostering a deeper connection with the oceans, Nootka Marine Adventures helps protect waterways for future generations. Through an immersive learning experience for kids and adults of all ages, guests gain valuable salt-water angling skills to take home and apply to future fishing adventures.