Victoria’s Dining Scene Spices Up

Three years ago, Kiran Kolathodan was determined to bring the cuisine from his home state in India to Victoria. Now, after witnessing how much his food is adored, he and his partners have made the ambitious move to a larger space — one that is a beloved spot for Victorians. On March 1, Cafe Malabar took over the expansive space previously occupied by Tug Eatery at the foot of Swift Street and facing Victoria’s Upper Harbour, a peaceful and lovely tributary plied by water taxis and kayaks.

With his business partner and co-chef, Karma Tenpa, Kolathodan has turned Cafe Malabar from a bustling kiosk in the Victoria Public Market into a 100-seat-plus venue determinedly Keralese.

That regional focus is one of the aspects that set it apart from the nearly 20 other Indian restaurants in British Columbia’s capital. The pedigree of Kolathodan and Tenpa is what has lifted Cafe Malabar to its success. Both have worked at luxury resorts in Canada and internationally, and their skill shows. Kolathodan was an executive chef at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia, a five-star property in downtown Vancouver, and a senior cook at Tofino’s globally acclaimed Wickanninish Inn while Tenpa worked at JW Marriott in Mumbai, among other high-end locations.

The two chefs met while they were in the kitchen together at Westin Bear Mountain Resort, a sprawling property north of downtown Victoria. When a space opened in the public market, they took it to launch Cafe Malabar, turning out plates of their special Indian cuisine and quickly finding a following. Cafe Malabar earned local and national accolades, encouraging the duo to go bigger.

They’ve done so while maintaining the focus on Kerala. There’s no butter chicken on the menu, for example. Instead the curries include coconut and a spice profile that is indicative of the south of India, though the chefs are mindful of presenting mild options.

“There are about 18 indian restaurants in the Victoria area and every one was doing the same cuisine, which was primarily from Punjab. We said we need to break this barrier. The South Indian community initially supported us and we had lineups at the market. More and more people started to come,” Kolathodan said. “Indian food is not regarded as being as fine as French cuisine or Italian cuisine, and we want to break that stereotype. There is a huge food scene in India and people are pushing boundaries to define what it can be. We want to do that here.”

Kolathodan adds that the goal is to keep the cuisine as “simple, authentic, and true to your heart” as possible. That means cooking from scratch and even making their own masala, with a blend of spices often sourced from Vancouver importer Guruji Foods.

The ambitiousness extends to the wine list, where varietals from colonial countries like Portugal and Spain that influenced the food of Kerala are featured, and cocktails include liquors that have been fat-washed with coconut.

Victoria Diversifies Its Dining Scene

It’s the curries that standout, though, and what will keep you tempted to make a return visit. The spice is hot but not so much that it interferes with the flavours of the ingredients. There’s a complexity in the cooking technique that shines through, especially in the Puttu with Varutharacha Chicken Curry ($26), which features roasted spices that are slowly blended into the sauce and served with steamed rice in cylindrical portions.

The Kerala Egg Puff ($5) was inspired by the French, who had colonies in Kerala in the 18th century. Surrounded by a flaky pastry, the spiced boiled egg is the kind of two-bite morsel that foodies adore. With an affordable menu, Cafe Malabar offers guests a chance to try a number of different dishes, giving them a culinary tour of one of India’s most celebrated regions.

 

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The success of the restaurant is also an indication of the growing diversification of Victoria’s dining scene. Only about a five-minute walk away is Block Kitchen & Bar, which focuses on the flavours of Korea and Japan, including a plum wine that is among the shining stars of Vancouver Island’s culinary scene.

Umeshu ($28) is made with plum berries hand-picked by the Block Kitchen team and distilled into a liqueur that has a lovely balance of sweetness and rich texture. It’s the highlight of a stellar cocktail menu that includes novel ingredients like pork-belly-fat-washed rum, matcha orgeat, and honey gochujang sauce.

The food menu highlights are a trio of bao buns, headlined by the Japabao Dog ($11) that includes a delicious double-smoked farmers sausage, and the Korean Fried Chicken ($17). Launched in 2024, Block Kitchen & Bar is a sister restaurant of the original in Banff, which may explain the fun-loving twist on drinks and food.

MORE ABOUT VISITING VICTORIA

Where to Stay: Coast Victoria Hotel and Marina: Recently renovated, Coast is a quality three-star property on James Bay, about 20 minutes by foot to Chinatown and Cafe Malabar. The rooms are spacious and several have views of the water. The toilets are an attraction in themselves with Japanese-style features and functions that will entice giggles. Location: 146 Kingston Street, Victoria, British Columbia. Room Rates: A weekend night in March, based on a recent search of the hotel’s booking engine, starts at $201. As a bonus the hotel has two electric vehicle chargers (one dedicated to Tesla) that are free to use.

Getting There: BC Ferries has frequent sailings daily from the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal in the Greater Vancouver Area to Swartz Bay, which is 30 minutes by car from downtown Victoria. Foot passengers can board and connect by bus to Victoria.