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With Collaborations, Hawksworth Adds More Lavishness to Vancouver’s Dining Scene

halibut-mousseline-mussels-hawksworth

Chef David Hawksworth serves up halibut and mussels in a mousseline sauce. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)

Chef collaborations are nothing new in the restaurant industry. Like the best in cooking, restraint in programming often yields the best results. What I mean by that is rather than inviting colleagues who specialize in notably different cuisine, the chefs who reinforce their gastronomy with collaborators who are more similar than different leads to a menu that feels consistent in flavour and experience. It shouldn’t be a surprise, then, that David Hawksworth has spent 2024 putting together one of the best visiting chef programs Vancouver has ever seen.

On October 2, Hawksworth’s eponymous restaurant invited Michelin-starred Ron McKinlay of Toronto’s Canoe for an evening of French-inspired deliciousness. McKinlay’s visit followed an appearance in the summer by Jonathan Gushue, one of Canada’s most acclaimed culinary talents who guided Langdon Hall in Southern Ontario to the World’s 50 Best list in 2010 and helped the Fogo Island Inn gain international notoriety. He currently runs The Gate, a new restaurant in the Grey Highlands of Ontario. [Read more about The Gate.]

“The collaboration dinners offer our entire team the chance to showcase our vision but also to learn from and be influenced by leading chefs from across the country,” Hawksworth said in an email interview. The restaurant’s PR team added that “each dinner becomes an exchange of ideas and techniques, aligning with his passion for creating distinctive and memorable dining experiences for guests at Hawksworth.”

McKinlay joined Hawksworth in crafting a seven-course menu at the restaurant at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia. The evening began with a “Snacks” course in which the creativity of both chefs were on display on the same plate. A smoked oyster with truffle custard, and beef tartare with smoked egg yolk and parmesan gougère were among the decadent morsels. The highlight was Hawksworth’s main course: A pristinely cooked, silky-soft halibut served with west coast mussels, spinach, and a mousseline sauce with velouté. It reminded me of why we indulge in fine dining — to be transfixed by the act of eating that too often can be rushed and mundane rather than soul-nourishing, as it should be.

 

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Chef Hawksworth enjoys collaborating to create innovative dishes that highlight Canadian talent and expertise, fostering a sense of pride in homegrown flavours while underscoring Canada’s reputation for culinary excellence,” the restaurant said.

MORE DINING: The Best Pastry Chef in Canada

Another highlight of the evening was the utterly superb service. Hawksworth has always had some of the finest hospitality in Canada, including a sommelier team that is deeper than most, and now it reports that the “current staffing level at the restaurant has returned to pre-pandemic levels and we’re beginning to notice a welcoming trend with many staff returning to the industry.” The never-miss-a-beat service adds immensely to the dining experience.

While no other chef collaborations are scheduled, there’s no doubt Hawksworth will invite more. In the meantime, another event that should entice connoisseurs is Hawksworth’s upcoming evening with Macallan, the legendary scotch-maker. On November 6, the restaurant will feature a five-course dinner with Macallan pairings for each. Reservations can be made through OpenTable.

The Story Behind Vancouver’s Michelin List

Hawksworth’s initiatives are one reason why the Vancouver restaurant scene is buzzing more than usual. The chief catalyst for interest, though, is the now three-year-old Michelin guide to the city.

CEO Royce Chwin of Destination Vancouver spoke with a gathering of local travel media on October 7 and explained the origins of the city’s Michelin guide. He said that it was Michelin that approached Vancouver, enamoured by the Asian-influenced dining scene rich with coastal ingredients that would be the envy of many destinations. Discussions with Michelin publishers included advising them that changes would need to be made in order for judges to accurately represent Vancouver’s culture. The majority of the city’s restaurants are not aligned with the traditions of European fine dining.

The result has been recognition for restaurants that emphasize local ingredients and Japan-esque precision in cuisine in laid-back environments. The city has pushed envelopes before — being a pioneer of the 100-mile diet and even inventing egg cartons — and the Michelin guide adds to its culinary legacy.

Suyo Jets You to Peru In One Bite

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Suyo does ceviche, the traditional halibut dish that’s a Peru favourite, exceptionally well. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)

As soon as I tasted Ricardo Valverde’s Classico Ceviche I was transported to Lima and one of my favourite restaurants in the world, Gaston Acurio’s beloved and celebrated La Mar Cebicheria. Suyo gets the flavours exactly right. There’s much more to admire beyond Peru’s favourite dish. The branzino chicharron is coated lavishly in a sweet chili-panca glaze and served with fried rice that has Suyo’s own XO sauce, and pickled daikon, which hints at the Nikkei influence in Peruvian cuisine.

The adventurousness of the cocktail list also took me to the best bar experiences in Lima, including the wild and inventive Ayahuasca Bar. Suyo’s cocktails include ingredients like “Amazonian tepache”, “pyrolized mango”, and “pepino dulce”. The cocktails will whisk you on a trip in more ways than one.

Suyo means “Homeland”, a nod to Valverde’s roots. Like the best ethnic restaurants in Vancouver, it is filled with heart and the chef’s deep passion to share the intricate nuances of his nation’s gastronomy and culture.

Tsawwassen Has a Hot New Beach House Brewery

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Four Winds Beach House & Brewery, located in Tsawwassen, is among the new restaurants to debut in the Lower Mainland in recent months. (Adrian Brijbassi photo for Vacay.ca)

British Columbia has many exceptional family-owned breweries that have helped to enliven and enrich communities. Among them is Four Winds Brewing, which recently expanded from its original location in Delta to an immaculate and rustic-chic restaurant in the Southlands neighbourhood of Tsawwassen. Four Winds Beach House and Brewery is a huge and elegant dining space with a menu that’s a refreshing blend of healthy options, pub favourites, and a few sophisticated choices, such as Dungeness crab spaghettini and burrata served with sungold tomatoes.

The beer list leans on Czech influences, even though there are options that will please all craft-beer tastes.

Having debuted in September, the Four Winds Beach House is already a magnet for residents in Tsawwassen, and it gives visitors a reason to venture into the small city known for its ferry terminal, giant shopping mall, and sandy shores.

Adrian is the editor of Vacay.ca and VacayNetwork.com. Adrian has won numerous awards for his travel writing, travel photography, and fiction, and has visited more than 55 countries. He is a former editor at the Toronto Star and New York Newsday, and was the social media and advocacy manager for Destination Canada. His articles have frequently appeared in the Huffington Post, Globe & Mail, and other major publications. He has appeared on national and local broadcasts, talking about travel, sports, creative writing and journalism. In 2019, he launched Trippzy, a travel-trivia app developed to educate consumers about destinations around the world. He also edited "Inspired Cooking", a nutrition-focused cookbook featuring 20 of Canada's leading chefs and in support of the cancer-fighting charity, InspireHealth. "Inspired Cooking" was created in honour of Adrian's late wife and Vacay.ca co-founder, Julia Pelish, who passed away of brain cancer in 2016.