Vancouver’s Chinatown Retains Its Heritage as It Gallops Forward with Change

As the Year of the Horse arrives, the interest in Chinese culture and history gallops forward to snare the interest of residents and visitors in Vancouver. The city has the largest Chinatown in Canada and third-largest in land area in North America (trailing only San Francisco and New York). Its cultural impact is immense. So much so that Parks Canada designated the neighbourhood as a National Historic Site in 2011.

Increasingly, though, the reasons to visit have less to do with the area’s history than the vitality of its present. A number of recent and emerging entrepreneurs are shaping the neighbourhood for the future, invigorating it with art, cuisine, and nightlife with the aim to both transform the district and maintain its depth of culture. There are century-old community centres next or near to novel businesses such as the chef-owned Ai & Om knife shop that specializes in contemporary blades and Bagheera, a cocktail bar with Indian-inspired drinks that is considered among the best on the continent.

Chinatown is both a place for reflection — thanks to landmark attractions like Dr. Sun Yat Sen Classical Chinese Garden — and activity suited for modern tastes.

Historian Judy Lam Maxwell puts it all into context and reveals fascinating finds — some hidden in plain sight — during her cultural tours of the district. The founder and guide of Historical Chinatown Tours & Masterclass Dumplings, Maxwell is a third-generation Vancouverite on her father’s side. Her great-grandfather, George Ritchie Maxwell, was the first British Columbian to serve as a Member of Parliament after being elected as a Liberal in 1899. He was known to lobby against Chinese immigration, which didn’t persuade his grandson from dating and eventually marrying a woman from Hong Kong.

While George Ritchie Maxwell’s portrait can be seen in Chinatown archives, it is his great-granddaughter who has dedicated herself to preserving the legacy of the area, including documents that shed light on the regrettable blights of racism and poverty. Her tours help residents and visitors connect with what they see on the streets around them. Tour guests have the opportunity to go inside the historic community centres to interact with the Chinese elders who play mahjong and plan events, or to observe the artwork, decorations, regalia, and more that have meaning to the generations of residents who built the neighbourhood.

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The western gates that lead into Chinatown are at the corner of Carrall and Pender streets, though Shanghai Alley and notable businesses in the Jack Chow Building are just outside of that boundary. The neighbourhood continues east past Main Street to Gore Avenue, and runs north to Keefer Street. The storytelling on the tours includes stops where guests can see several artifacts that present a fascinating window into the past.

Judy Lam Maxwell will also point out her favourite grocers and note that the biggest differentiating factor between them is often the Chinese medical doctors who are affiliated with each shop. The tour includes a stop at New Town Bakery, which has been in operation for six decades and is beloved by both residents of Chinatown and the larger Vancouver community. New Town specializes in a range of dumplings and steamed buns, among a wide selection of sweet and savoury items. The cash-only operation (debit cards are accepted) is so popular it runs through hundreds of take-out boxes each day.

Launched in 2021, the Chinese Storytelling Centre is an outstanding gallery that provides an interactive and immersive experience. Sharp-looking, it invites visitors to explore the deeper meanings of Chinese culture, including Lunar New Year celebrations and the intricacies of Chinese art. Across the street is the Chinese Canadian Museum that explores the heritage of the neighbourhood as well as its impact on contemporary culture.

Maxwell’s tour provides the knowledge you need to understand the vitality of Chinatown and is a great way to launch your explorations. Once you’re settled in, you’ll want to also visit some of the outstanding food and drink establishments in the area. It’s a diverse range that showcases the appreciation of multiculturalism that has defined many of Canada’s cities.

Where to Eat and Drink In Vancouver’s Chinatown

Pidgin: Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Pidgin has become a mainstay in Chinatown. It continues to deliver Asian-influenced dishes that are big on flavour and ideal for sharing. The restaurant has maintained its high-quality cocktail program while adapating its menu for evolving tastes.

Uchu: Opened in February, Uchu is a Peruvian restaurant run by chef/owner Ricardo Valverde, who has made Suyo a hit on Main Street. Uchu is turning out classic Peruvian favourites in a renovated room. Among the most talented chefs in the city, Valverde brings even more reason for diners to visit Chinatown.

Keefer Bar: The icon that sparked the cocktail scene in Vancouver, Keefer keeps innovating while staying true to its devotion to providing a sense of place and distinct menu that is fitting for a former apothecary building.

Among the highly ranked Vancouver entries in the North America’s 50 Best Bars list (No. 28), the Keefer has expanded its customer base to include cocktail lovers from around the world. That makes a visit all the more interesting because you will likely run into guests from afar, many of whom will be exceptionally knowledgeable about the drinks scene beyond Canada’s borders.

Laowai and Blnd Tger Dumplings: On East Georgia Street, Blnd Tger Dumplings draws crowds with its punchy, contemporary dumpling menu during the day. At night, the Laowai speakeasy, located through a surreptitious entrance at the front of Blnd Tger, attracts in-the-know connoisseurs who appreciate the Shanghai influence of the decor and the spirit-forward concoctions.

Bagheera: Sister speakeasy to Laowai, Bagheera features a beautiful curved wall interior and an ambitious cocktail menu. Many drinks are inspired by India and Southeast Asia ingredients, as is the food menu. The happy hour (5-7 p.m., Sunday to Thursday) features half-price food items and a selection of $8 cocktails. Bagheera is located behind the till of a former off-track horse-race betting site, and playfully integrates that history into the experience.

Phnom Penh: Though technically Cambodian-Vietnamese, Phnom Penh has become a Cantonese foodie rite of passage thanks to its famed chicken wings and butter beef. One of the more reasonably priced critcally acclaimed restaurants in Vancouver, Phnom Penh is a dining institution in the city.

Bao Bei: A dining experience that’s been a local favourite for years, Bao Bei elevates Chinatown cuisine with inventive plates and curated cocktails in a chic space.

Kissa Tanto: Bao Bei’s sister restaurant, Kissa Tanto blends European and Asian flavours in an umami-rich culinary experience that stands out for both its uniqueness and quality.

Fat Mao Noodles: A spot for lovers of noodle soup dishes and spicy Thai flavours, Fat Mao is a go-to lunch spot for foodies. Try the Khao Soi Chicken Curry, a thick braised leg in a creamy northern Thai-style curry.

Bar Gobo: Transformed into a wine bar, Bar Gobo is best known for its live music program with DJs and vinyl spinning. It features an atmosphere that encourages socialabiilty and groove. The bar is indicative of the evolving nature of Vancouver’s Chinatown, where businesses of all kinds have entered to bring a fresh burst of culture and cultural sharing to the community.