A Cycling Trip to PEI Rewards Your Pedal Power

Biking on Prince Edward Island has been on my to-do list for several years, ever since I moved out to Atlantic Canada. I had heard of the Confederation Trail that spans across the island, offering more than 400 kilometres of riding pleasure. I finally made it happen this summer, well-timed with the toll reduction of the Confederation Bridge (from $50.25 to $20).

The 449-kilometre Confederation Trail was born from the Canadian National Railway, whose services were discontinued in 1989 after 114 years of operation. The main train line spanned 273 kilometres from Tignish at the west and eastward to Elmira, plus additional branch lines to smaller communities. Totalling 449 kilometres of rolled stoned dust surface, it can be biked in its entirety.

Which was not my goal, of course, I’m at best a day rider on a regular street bike, and my seat complains of saddle sores after 20 kilometres. Poring over the Confederation Trail website, I plotted my route over the four days I had allotted for the trip, cycling three sections of the trail and one section of PEI National Park trails.

With my bike secured to the back of the car, I crossed over the 12.9-kilometre Confederation Bridge to arrive on “The Island”. My first stop, as I had done the previous two times I visited, was to The Handpie Company in Albany just moments after crossing the bridge. I tucked into a delicious savoury pie made with butter pastry. With flavours like PEI Pasty (similar to a beef stew), Maritime Meat Pie, Curried Chickpea, and 15 more, each half-moon-shaped pie is an envelope of deliciousness in a flaky crust.

Day 1: Elmsdale to O’Leary

Sufficiently suffonsified, I headed west to the start of my first ride — Elmsdale, so named for the elm grove that grew in nearby wetlands. At Km 27, the Confederation Trail crosses Highway 2, the route that connects the island from east to west, then known as the Great Western Road. I left my car and began pedalling towards O’Leary, 18 kilometres away. It was a pleasant afternoon, the trail was compact and flat, and the only obstacle I dodged was the many apples that had fallen onto the path. Later I would read from a trailside interpretative signboard — one of 250 — that because apples were a lunch staple for workers and travellers, they were often taken onboard train journeys, and the cores that were subsequently discarded out the window became fruiting trees that line the trail. The trail was peaceful, with only the sounds of my tires on the gravel breaking the silence.

An hour and 45 minutes later, I arrived at O’Leary’s Potato Museum. I spent a little over an hour inside, learning all about the lowly spud, which turned out to be not so lowly at all. Everything from the physiology, cultivation, and nutrition of the potato and its important role in our civilized life was displayed here. Another large room contained old and new farm machinery, and across the hall was a community museum dedicated to O’Leary. It was a nice break to stretch my legs while learning about one of PEI’s biggest industries.

When it was time to leave, Terry Adams of Eclipse Transportation arrived to take me and my bike back to the car. Bike shuttle services are available throughout the island, allowing cyclists to ride farther without having to double back to their car. Picking up an individual or two is common for Adams, but he also has larger trucks with racks to accommodate biking groups. Back in the car, I headed to Mill River Resort to stay the night. Located on Mill River Golf Course, the resort was a comfortable first-night stay. I soothed my legs in the hot tub and watched kids (and a few adults) spiral down the slide into the swimming pool. The dinner at the onsite Callaghan’s restaurant was lovely too, with tables overlooking the golf course and great food.

Day 2: Richmond to Summerside

After breakfast the next morning, I jumped in the car to Richmond, Km 83 on the trail, for my ambitious 26-kilometre ride to Summerside, the longest continuous ride of my trip. It was a misty morning with a few drops of rain, and the trail was deserted for that reason. Roofed structures with picnic tables provided shelter when I needed it, but as I travelled south, the sky cleared, and it became a beautiful day. Next to the trail were golden hay fields, weathered barns, marshy wetlands, and green potato fields, a good excuse for breaks and to take photos. I rode past Miscouche, an important site for Acadian history. It was there in 1884 that the design of the Acadian flag and the “Strength Through Unity” motto were chosen. I didn’t have time to stop at the museum, but I made a mental note for next time.

Two and a half hours later, I rolled into the Loyalist Inn in Summerside, located conveniently next to the trail. I found Patricia Bryant waiting for me in the lobby to take me back to my car. She and her husband, Bob, also saw a healthy business of riders requesting shuttle service this summer. Back with my car and after checking in at the inn, I headed to the adjacent Evermoore Brewing Co. I traded my bike seat for a bench seat and potato and haddock fish cakes, a classic Maritime meal, accompanied by a flight of their best brews. I popped by Holman’s afterwards — Summerside’s must-visit creamery housed inside a heritage building. With 16 rotating flavours out of 100 recipes, everything is homemade with island ingredients, including the cones. The menu also featured sinful desserts such as brownie à la mode, turtle sundae, banana split, classic ice cream sodas, and milkshakes, but I opted for a classic chocolate cone to enjoy outside in the garden.

Day 3: Cavendish to North Rustico

The ride on my third day was the only time I deviated from the Confederation Trail. After a 40-minute drive from Summerside, I crossed over to the island’s north shore and entered PEI National Park. After parking at the Cavendish Cliffs lot, I cycled next to the Gulf Shore Parkway towards North Rustico, a distance of 8.5 kilometres. The trail was luxurious compared to the hard-packed dirt surface I had been biking on — it was fully paved! However, there were several hills to negotiate, and, in contrast to the previous two days, bike traffic was heavy. Cyclists were attracted to the scenic views. I stopped in several spots, admiring the red sandstone cliffs and the vast Gulf of St. Lawrence beyond.

I arrived in North Rustico Harbour just before noon, and refuelled at the Blue Mussel Cafe with a hearty clam chowder (best I ever had) and a giant pot of PEI mussels steamed in garlic, blueberry ale, and lime. [Read more about Blue Mussel Cafe]

After lunch, I strolled through the artisan shop and the adjacent Harbour Trail. Kayaking, watersports rentals, and deep-sea fishing excursions appeared to be the main tourist attractions, along with the nearby North Rustico Beach.

I tackled the hills back to the car and made my way to Dalvay by the Sea for the most interesting stay of my trip. Located within the second section of PEI National Park, the 130-year-old Victorian home was originally built as a lavish summer getaway for American business magnate Alexander McDonald and his family. Today, the building has been converted to a historical inn with 25 rooms of various sizes, and three-bedroom cottages have been built on the property. The main inn had charming covered porches, a showpiece staircase, several fireplaces, and a large dining room. A storyboard on the wall recounted the colourful history of the building and its occupants, with “then and now” photos. I chuckled upon entering my “cozy queen” room on the third floor at the end of the hallway, no doubt a former servant’s quarters.

Across the street from the inn was lovely Dalvay Beach, which made for a nice pre- or post-dinner stroll. Those who wanted to ride more could tackle another paved path, which ran through the area. I took dinner at Fin Folk Food, a short drive away. Vacay.ca Tip: Request a table upstairs by the window, and order the lobster roll — it was full of large chunks of delicious meat. The floor-to-ceiling glass afforded great views over the dunes, and with my perfect timing, a spectacular sunset.

Day 4: Mount Stewart to St. Peters

I started my final day’s ride at Mount Stewart, where the old railway continued east but also branched south across the Hillsborough River to serve smaller communities. After leaving the car, I followed the main line northeast towards Morell, a distance of 15 kilometres. I had the trail mainly to myself again, surrounded by hay fields and carpets of red blueberry bushes.

At the old Morell train station — now a visitor’s centre with picnic tables and washrooms — I met Ruth DeLong, trails community relations coordinator for PEI Parks, and we rode together to St. Peters. DeLong has been involved with the Confederation Trail for over 30 years and knows the terrain intimately, having biked the main line tip to tip eight times and the branch lines a dozen times. As a “Jill” of all trades, she has been responsible for all the interpretive panels along the trail, coordinates trail maintenance, and even gets her hands dirty planting native species and removing invasive ones. While cycling, she told me to watch out for the curious small holes I had been seeing on the ground — just about 10 centimetres wide but big enough for my bike to dip into. They were Eastern chipmunk burrows, she said, and it wasn’t uncommon for the critters to suddenly dash in and out of one. We stopped at a large patch of Common Milkweed, which Ruth told me is an alien species that mysteriously appeared. Like the apples, they were most likely another stowaway on the train and found a new home on the island. Fortunately, its existence was beneficial to a variety of insects, including the Monarch butterfly, thus the milkweed was spared from eradication and allowed to thrive along the trail.

Twelve kilometres passed quickly, and we soon rolled into St. Peters. I bade farewell to DeLong and hopped in George Larter’s truck back to Mount Stewart to fetch my car. He pointed out his favourite take-out chowder and fish and chips spots along the way, and mused that cyclists often think they will lose weight while biking, only to put it all back on by indulging in rich meals. PEI is advertised as Canada’s Food Island, featuring fresh lobster, mussels, and oysters, famous Cow’s ice cream and cheeses, and of course, potatoes made every which way you like. The annual PEI International Shellfish Festival, Fall Flavours Food & Drink, and Winter Dine all draw visitors year-round. Knowing all that, I would agree with my driver!

Back in St. Peters, I spent my final evening at Mysa Nordic Spa. It was the perfect finale to my biking trip and a much-deserved reward. On beautifully landscaped grounds overlooking St. Peters Bay, I practised the Scandinavian ritual of hot, cold, and rest by visiting the eucalyptus steam room and barrel sauna, the cold plunge, and the warm thermal pool. Dinner in the dining room was divine, with crispy biscuits and honey butter, seared scallops and mussels, and lobster pappardelle. I peeked inside one of the unoccupied cottages and thought about returning here for a proper spa vacation.

Crossing the bridge back to New Brunswick the next day, I reflected on how much I enjoyed my four-day journey. Touring PEI by bike let me see its countryside and enjoy everything the various communities had to offer. I’m fortunate not to live that far away, so I can — and will — come back to bike more of this legendary railway trail.

MORE ABOUT BIKING ON PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Dates: The Confederation Trail is open for cycling from April 1 to November 30 (snowmobilers have exclusive use during the winter). September is a good time to bike, with cooler temperatures and fall foliage. Summer months are busy with tourists, families, and campers.

Cycling Tips: The Confederation Trail Guide provides suggested routes, maps, distance charts, trail facilities, accommodations, dining options, and sightseeing suggestions along the way. It’s the must-have companion for your biking trip.

Getting Around: Shuttle service to bring you (and your bike if required) back to your car should be pre-arranged by contacting the various companies in advance. A list of providers is on The Island Walk website.

Tourism Info: Tourism PEI is another valuable resource to plan your trip to the island. Prefer to walk the island instead? Visit The Island Walk for itinerary ideas and planning tools.