Tasting the Fruits of the Soil in Okanagan’s Wine Country

A four-and-a-half hour drive southeast of Vancouver, all of life’s signature pleasures — wine, culinary delights, relaxation, and adventure — await in Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country.

Fringed by vineyards, shimmering lakes, and a glacier-carved valley that owes its stunning beauty to this region’s warm climate, it took no time for me to get seduced.

The region’s 4,000 acres of vineyards represents more than half of the wine produced in Canada. Its unique and fertile terroir, low-moderate rainfall, lakes, mountains, and long, hot growing days are perfect for crafting red wines with full ripeness, structure, and character — ideal conditions for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and a number of other varietals.

My first stop on the way to Osoyoos was at Kelowna’s Quails’ Gate Winery’s Old Vines Restaurant. The views, the food, the vibe are hard to beat.

At the helm for nearly two decades is executive chef Roger Sleiman. His cuisine is deeply influenced by the Okanagan Valley’s terroir and wines. “From day one, we’ve proudly embraced an authentic garden-to-table philosophy at Old Vines Restaurant, highlighting the natural harmony between the freshest local ingredients and Quails’ Gate’s acclaimed wines,” says Sleiman. “It’s about celebrating our incredible growing region and the  community of farmers, foragers, and artisans who have helped shape every memorable dining experience over the past 25 years.”

The atmosphere is reason enough to visit, but Quails’ Gate also serves some of the most perfectly cooked crispy-skinned Arctic char I’ve ever eaten. My server suggested a smooth 2022 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay. Even though I normally drink reds, the Chardonnay beautifully complemented the dish.

As I left Kelowna, a mosaic of fir trees made way for vast swaths of verdant vineyards perched against the sloping hills. Nestled along the very southern tip of the Okanagan Valley, the Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country is home to 100-plus wineries, some of them boasting wines that can compete on the world stage.

B.C.’s Fine Wines and Culinary Delights

With good wine you often find excellent food. In Osoyoos, dubbed “the place where two lakes come together,”  winery restaurants celebrate the farmers’ seasonal ingredients that thrive in the same region as the vineyards.

A 15-minute drive north from the Walnut Beach Resort, my home base or three nights, is one of my all-time favourite wineries, Oliver’s multiple award-winning Burrowing Owl Estate Winery and its Sonora Room restaurant.

An institution for more than two decades, the elegant dining room’s rustic design charms, but on a sunny day nothing can beat its coveted wrap-around deck. While sipping on a 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, I dug into a refreshing rhubarb salad, followed by a seared salmon with spinach and Dijon tarragon cream that I mopped up with the house-made warm focaccia bread. The whole experience was truly memorable.

“We strive to create dishes that highlight the nuances of our wines — showcasing their balance, structure, and flavour profiles through complementary culinary techniques and ingredients,” says executive chef Lee Humphries, a United Kingdom native who began his career at the upscale Budock Vean Golf and Country House. “Our goal is to create a seamless food and wine experience that reflects a true sense of place and creates wonderful memories for our guests.”

A rising star in Oliver is Kismet Estate Winery ’s 28-year-old winemaker Manpreet Dhaliwal. Since 2020, the only female South Asian winemaker in North America has been at the helm of one of the largest family-owned estate wineries in the Okanagan. Since then, Dhaliwal has been crushing it — her first vintages as winemaker have already garnered acclaim, including a Double Gold at the All-Canadian Wine Championships for Kismet’s 2023 Pinot Grigio.

Born and raised in the Okanagan, Dhaliwal says: “I grew up running in the vineyards at Burrowing Owl and Mission Hill Family Estate. I’m a nurse by trade, but every summer I came home and worked in the tasting room. In 2022, we had a bumper crop, it was such a heavy year. It was a perfect time for me to get a crash course in winemaking. In 2023, our winemaker left and I took over.”

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I sampled some of her most popular wines (my fave was the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve), at the winery’s restaurant, Manzil (whose name means “home”). With a Michelin Guide select resume, head chef Narendra Panwar’s tasting menu took me on a culinary journey across India. With flavours and diverse ingredients that reflect the Indian subcontinent, each dish was a nod to that nation’s regional and traditional dishes. The multi-layered signature delicacies included steamed dhokla bites, kale chaat salad, blue-cod pakoras, sprouted lentil salad, butter chicken, and pork vindaloo that effortlessly fused tradition with modernity.

Dhaliwal’s sister, Neelam, is the operations manager for both the winery and restaurant. “At Manzil, we believe Indian cuisine deserves a place at the fine-dining table,” says Neelam Dhaliwal. “That’s why we work closely with our winemaker to create intentional pairings where the wine and food speak to each other — creating an experience that’s deeply rooted in tradition but designed for today’s palate.”

Road 13 Vineyards is an impressive winery located on the Golden Mile Bench, notable for its wines, warm atmosphere, and beautiful setting. With rustic farm vibes, Road 13’s tasting terrace overlooks the sprawling vineyard. It is where I sampled Road 13 Vineyards’ new John Oliver Selection, a curated series featuring seven wines.

The John Oliver Selection was inspired by its namesake Okanagan farmer and politician, who was the province’s 19th premier. The series respects his many achievements and draws inspiration from his hard-working spirit.

While hand-harvested, small-lot fermentations are key to the quality of its wines, Road 13 Vineyards is crafting powerful, dense reds. I couldn’t resist buying a 2021 John Oliver Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2020 John Oliver Syrah. The charcuterie board’s assortment of aged cheese, cured meats, and olives wonderfully complemented the bold reds.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards was another pleasant surprise. First off, it offers an unparalleled experience. You can sample sips in the tasting bar, the patio or by the amphitheatre — all the while soaking up the wine country. Sitting on the covered patio, I sampled four of the reserve series, all of which were silky smooth, big reds.

Originally from Mendoza in Argentina, winemaker Leandro Nosal is a fourth-generation winemaker. He took over the reins at Tinhorn Creek in 2021. Prior to that move, Nosal made wine in both Old and New Worlds, from Bordeaux, Catalunya, and Piedmont to California, Marlborough, Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe, and Canada’s Niagara Region.

“It is Mother Nature and working with the vines that will produce the fruit that is the foundation of a good wine,” Nosal says. “This means that there is a lot of attention that needs to be paid to what is happening on the vine.”

While dining at the Walnut Beach Resort’s Point 49 Kitchen & Bar, I had the good fortune of meeting restaurant manager Khazan Singh. I enjoyed a few meals poolside overlooking Osoyoos Lake, the beach and the surrounding mountain vistas dotted with vineyards, which at night is truly a magical viewpoint.

After listening to Singh speak passionately about the wines, I differed to him and both times Singh opted for reds that married well with the classic bistro fare. With my sloppy but delicious burger, Singh suggested the Black Hills Estate Winery’s 2022 Nota Bene — a stellar combination. Another night, I went for a Tuna Poke Bowl and Singh recommended a wine I’d never heard of, Nostalgia’s 2020 Syrah — Singh nailed it again. The soft-spoken Singh later told me that he continues to educate himself on Okanagan wines with a wish to one day return to India to open up his own winery.

Quintessential Hike in Osoyoos

The Osoyoos Oxbows may be the most picturesque walk in the valley and perhaps the whole Okanagan. Lying at the north end of the lake between Road 18 and Road 22, the trail winds through the Oxbow lakes, past wetlands and if lucky you’ll see turtles. From the parking lot on Road 22 you can walk towards the old bridge, and on either side of the bridge is a path that runs parallel with the channel. After crossing the bridge, I hiked past the historic Haynes Ranch, one of the oldest cattle ranches in the Okanagan Valley (circa 1915). Its crumbling barns and ranch houses are part of the Okanagan Historical Society preservation project. I loved the hike so much, I came twice.

From Tinhorn Creek Vineyards parking lot is the start of the Golden Mile Trail, a moderately challenging 7.4-kilometre (4.6-mile) trail leading to the historic Stamp Mill ruins. I strapped on my hiking boots and walked for nearly 30 minutes before the scorching sun got to me. During the summer, the trail is best tackled in the early morning or evening.

If you choose to stay closer to town, there are several walks along the lake.

Where to stay: The Walnut Beach Resort is nestled on the southern edge of Osoyoos Lake — the warmest lake in Canada — overlooking the mountain range and sitting on the Okanagan’s only private, licensed beach. It is truly a gorgeous setting. There are 96 suites, ranging from studios up to two-bedrooms. I stayed in the elegant, expansive two-bedroom penthouse suite. The resort’s pool terrace and hot tub is a hot spot for soaking in the sun. It is also a family-friendly area where guests can use one of two barbecues. Room Rates: A weekend night in July starts at $499, according to a recent search of the property’s booking engine.

Getting to Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country: Drivers can take Route 97 South from Kamloops (3.5 hours), Highway 3 from Vancouver (4.5 hours), or Highway 3 from Cranbrook (5 hours)

For more about Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country, visit the tourism board’s website.