Salt Spring Island’s Culinary Scene Sprouting with New Artisans

Beyond the rugged beauty that runs 185 kilometres (74 miles) in length with 135 kilometres (83 miles) of shoreline, I soon found out that there was a flourishing food movement highlighted by farm-to-table dining.

In retrospect, I shouldn’t have been surprised.

Dubbed the “Island of the Arts,” Salt Spring is a hamlet of 12,000 full-time residents. Among them are approximately 200 artisanal food and farm producers, and cattle ranchers, many of whom are organic growers. The locally sourced bounty has fuelled a gastronomy scene that is a blueprint for sustainable dining. Best of all, you won’t find a chain restaurant.

Savour the Flavours of B.C.’s Gulf Island

After checking out The Sanctuary,  my home for the weekend, I hit the road in search of lunch. I was driving along Upper Ganges Road when The Woodshed caught my eye. Drawn by the bakery/deli’s woodsy exterior, I was enticed to enter. The Woodshed’s funky décor, aroma of freshly baked breads, and counters filled with spiced savoury delicacies is a foodie’s paradise. Owned and operated by chef/proprietor Haidee Hart, The Woodshed has made its name for its handcrafted organic pastries, breads, soups, and seasonally inspired grab-and-go prepared meals — great for a picnic.

I picked up a vegetable curry and cheese scone, both of which were possibly the best I’d ever tasted.

Having lived on the island for 25 years, much of that time spent on farms, Hart said it provided her with a strong connection to the food and to the land. Those experiences inspired her to open The Woodshed five years ago.

“In early 2020, I was gearing up for a very busy season of travelling around the world, cooking, teaching, and hosting events. In January, I decided to offer a few of our favourite dishes to our wonderful friends and neighbours on a weekly basis before my busy season began. We put a fridge out in our woodshed so that they could pop by to pick up their meals,” says Hart. “This grew very quickly, and before I knew it we had a team of five. As travel restrictions fell into place, we embraced our new business and called it The Woodshed.”

Another local treasure, the Hen & Hound’s restaurant, Feast, is run by executive chef/owner Rochelle Roy-Allen. She left a lucrative corporate law practice to move to Salt Spring with her husband a few years ago.

“Searching for a lifestyle change, we purchased a 30-acre farm we called the Hen & Hound … we didn’t know a thing about farming,” quipped Roy-Allen. “The idea behind Feast honestly grew out of sitting at our table sharing family-style dishes, using food we grew, as well as ingredients from the amazing purveyors on the island.”

Dining at Feast, I unearthed exciting new flavours. Dubbing itself “unapologetically fin to fork, seed to spoon and pasture to plate,” the restaurant changes its menu almost daily. I noshed on platters consisting of Albacore tuna, lamb chops, and chicken, all served alongside perfectly seasoned, just-picked vegetables such as carrots, arugula, edible flowers, and yams.

The following day, after strolling the town’s boutiques and shops, which sell everything from handmade soaps to ethically sourced clothing, I needed to refuel with a cup of java. I found just the right place in the Treehouse Cafe. Housed in a heritage cedar cottage that mimicked a Hobbit-style cabin, the organic Salt Spring Island Coffee hit the spot. If you are hungry, the Treehouse Cafe offers vegetarian and vegan options — all made in-house.

For lunch, I headed to Cassette Café and Dive Bar. A former 1950’s gas station with its own attached convenience store, owner Mike Jacobsen went about refurbishing the space when he took over in May 2022.

Jacobsen moved to Salt Spring in November 2021 from Tofino. He  told me he often walked past the old gas station, and was intrigued by the possibilities the building presented. With more than two decades in the hospitality industry, with stints at Tofino’s Shelter Restaurant, Toronto’s King Taps, and the Cactus Club corporate office, Jacobsen was ready to take on a new project.

Locals and visitors alike fuel up on Cassette’s elevated comfort food, like its smash burger, the Nashville hot chicken sandwich, and Korean cauliflower nuggets. Paired with an impressive curated cocktail program and jukebox music, Cassette has garnered quite a following.

At the helm of the kitchen is Avery Hunter. A native of Salt Spring, he moved off island for 12 years honing his culinary chops at Vancouver restaurants, including Gastown’s acclaimed Wildebeest (closed in 2021), and the iconic French upscale restaurant, Le Crocodile.

“I was really fortunate to work under chef Michel Jacob,” he says of the famed and recently retired chef at Le Crocodile, “and learn all about classic French cuisine. I came back to Salt Spring in 2021. Working closely with farmers and food producers, I have at my disposal exceptional ingredients.”

Jacobsen also took over Moby’s Pub, a favourite among residents, in 2024 and went about “tweaking it.” Moby’s large patio, that opens onto sweeping views of Ganges Harbour, is one of the most popular patios on the island. Indoors, the lofty ceilings, wooden folk art, and stone fireplace gives it a decidedly comfy neighbourhood pub vibe.

“Moby’s Pub is a real institution amongst locals. I was conscious about not changing too much,” said Jacobsen. “My motto is to respect the tradition and slowly tweak over time.”

Opened in 1992, Moby’s Pub went through multiple owners, a few different iterations, and a brief closure. Today, Jacobsen is proud to say they only serve locally sourced produce, ethically raised protein, and seafood from Pacific Prowler, a second-generation family-run business that catches wild, sustainable seafood.

“With a Mediterranean climate, the warm summer days and cool evening ocean breeze make for fantastic farming and wine growing,” Jacobsen said. “The ingredients grown on Salt Spring are so good you can taste the difference.”

After our chat, I settled onto the patio, where the beauty of the sea met the deliciousness of the fish tacos in my hands.

Sleeping In a Treehouse on Salt Spring

Growing up, who didn’t want their own treehouse? I remember when a classmate’s father built a treehouse for him. How I yearned for an invite that never came. The mere idea of ascending into your own private makeshift house in the trees — one that held infinite escapades away from parents’ eagle eyes — strikes a collective childhood chord. On Salt Spring Island, I recently had the chance to live out a childhood dream.

As soon as I drove uphill from Ganges into the driveway, The Sanctuary came into view. Although not a treehouse per se, The Sanctuary is a  private treetop retreat sitting on four acres. Secluded amongst arbutus and cedar trees, the two-level space is immersed in nature —  it is where rustic charm meets modern indulgence. The oasis in the trees features a cozy living room with a gas fireplace, a small kitchenette, two bathrooms, and three bedrooms that can sleep up to six guests.

The wrap-around deck was my favourite spot to chill. It provided bird’s-eye views all the way from Whistler to Mount Baker. This is where I spent a lot of time soaking in the tranquility and seclusion.