In British Columbia’s Delta, the Blues are the Ocean Views and Calm New Horizons

After four decades of living in Richmond, I made a swift decision to sell my home and move farther south in Vancouver’s metropolitan area. I chose to do the one thing many Vancouverites dread — reside on the other side of the George Massey Tunnel. It is a notorious and often derided 2,064-foot stretch of infrastructure that has caused politicians, urban planners, and, most of all, drivers decades of grief. Built in 1959, the tunnel runs under the Fraser River and allows for the transportation of goods between British Columbia and Washington state. It also connects the communities of Delta, Tsawwassen, and Ladner to Richmond, providing access to Vancouver International Airport and, farther north on Highway 99, the amenities of a big city.

That connectivity has done a lot for the communities but the tunnel traffic tends to be painfully gridlocked, causing headaches for those who frequently commute to Vancouver. But as someone who doesn’t have to venture away from home often, I find my new surroundings on the south side of the Massey Tunnel to be enlightening, in more ways than one.

Since 2021, I have called Tsawwassen home. I was drawn to its small-town vibe, the serenity of Delta, and the natural beauty that includes proximity to the ocean. I felt a strong urge to live closer to the sea, in a town that offered me a slower pace of life. Today, I live within a five-minute walk of one of the best beaches in the Lower Mainland, Centennial Beach. Since moving to Tsawwassen, I have found so many more reasons to love my new neighbourhood as well as nearby Ladner.

TIME TO EXPLORE TSAWWASSEN

A seaside community close to the United States border, Tsawwassen is flanked by the Georgia Straight and Salish Sea to the west and Boundary Bay to the east. It is a popular destination, particularly in the summer as people converge on Centennial Beach. Part of the Boundary Bay Regional Park, it is one the warmest and cleanest soft-sand beaches in the region, with 15 kilometres (9 miles) of walking trails, picnic facilities, beach volleyball, children’s playground, and concession stand. The beach also hosts the annual New Year’s Day Delta Polar Bear Swim, which draws hundreds of brave costumed souls.

Tsawwassen is home to Southlands, a new master planned community rooted in farming and food — reputedly the first of its kind in North America. Set against a backdrop of 537 acres of farmland, there are interconnected pedestrian-friendly pathways, restaurants including Four Winds Beach House & Brewery and a L’aromas coffee shop franchise, artisan shops like The Hub Refillery, and a Market Square where farmers’ markets, food festivals, and outdoor concerts take place, including the annual South Delta Jazz Festival. To date approximately 350 of 950 homes are built. It will likely be another 10 years before the Southlands development is fully completed.

In the meantime, for those looking for more shopping options, there are both the compact Tsawwassen Town Centre and the massive Tsawwassen Mills mall, which has nearly 200 stores. Tsawwassen Mills includes a unique mix of premium fashion brands, including factory outlet stores, restaurants, and first-to-market retailers, as well as a food hall. There are play facilities for kids and large eateries, like Boston Pizza and Montana’s. It’s a mall that has it all.

What to Do: Push yourself to do a few laps on the stairs (it’s a great workout) at Fred Gingell Park and you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the Gulf Islands and Georgia Strait. Walk, run, or bike the Roberts Bank Coastal Trail and watch great blue herons and eagles soar overhead while you explore small islands and marshlands. Book a cycle excursion with Around the Bay Tours, like the three-hour Great Blue Heron Trail or the the company’s namesake tour, which both provide the chance to view wonderful scenery.

Catering to golfers of various skill levels, Tsawwassen Springs Golf Course is an 18-hole par-70 course renowned for its beautiful layout, stunning natural surroundings, and superior drainage — a key feature that allows it to be open year-round. The course features well-maintained fairways and greens amidst wetlands and mountain vistas. Founded in 1920, the Beach Grove Golf Course is a picturesque 18-hole par-71 circuit that combines lush greenery, challenging fairways, and stunning vistas. It’s a private course so visitors will need an invite from a member to secure a tee time.

Fifteen minutes away, on the western shores of Boundary Bay, Kings Links is surrounded by the Coast Mountains, Mount Baker, and the Gulf Islands. This par-72 championship public golf course — featuring undulating greens, beautifully manicured fairways, and windswept grasses — is inspired by the Scottish golfing experience.

Where to Dine: Tsawwassen has a number of dining options to check out, including west-coast cuisine, seafood, Thai, Indian, and a stellar locally owned craft brewery.

Overlooking the fairways of Tsawwassen Springs Golf Course, Pat Quinn’s Restaurant & Bar oozes atmosphere and offers west-coast options. Named after the Vancouver Canucks’ famed head coach, Pat Quinn’s has a patio overlooking the course and a lengthy happy hour (2-6 p.m. daily). Local musicians perform every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, and wine events are now part of the restaurant’s regular programming on Wednesdays.

Four Winds Beach House & Brewery is a coastal-themed restaurant offering upscale pub fare and award-winning craft ales — brewed on-site using Southlands-grown hops. Focused on locally sourced food, some of it from Southlands farmland, you will experience a true farm-to-table experience.

Thai-Isaan Cuisine & Cafe is a small, family-run restaurant that delivers authentic cuisine that has locals coming back for more. Mario’s Kitchen and its affiliated Gracie’s Next Door are beloved staples in the neighbourhood and are literally adjacent to each other. Owned and run by a local Tsawwassen family, both offer extensive menus to satisfy your palette and great outdoor patios. Gracie’s features live local musicians on Friday and Saturday nights.

One advantage of Tsawwassen’s location is the BC Ferries terminal. Located on the southwest end of Highway 17, the terminal provides service to Swartz Bay (Victoria), Duke Point (Nanaimo), and the Southern Gulf Islands. No matter what sailing you take, the voyage takes you past great scenery, and, if lucky, you might spot humpback whales, orcas, or harbour porpoises. While you wait for your ferry to depart, you can enjoy a number of shops, coffee, and food merchants, including Ali Baba Pizza, On The Go! Gelato, and Sweet Thea Coffee & Bakery in the terminal’s Tsawwassen Quay Market.

LADNER — YOU MIGHT LOVE IT

With a good dose of charm, Ladner is known for being close to endless outdoor adventures. A former historic fishing village, Ladner Village is a quaint, friendly, walkable community with a variety of unique businesses, restaurants, and pubs.

What to Do: Enjoy a stroll through the bustling stalls at the Ladner Village Market. It is British Columbia’s largest open-air farmers’ market, featuring more than 160 artisan vendors offering an array of fresh local produce, artisanal goods, and handcrafted items. There is often live music.

If you’re looking for great tunes, though, mark the annual Barnside Harvest Festival on your calendar (September 12-14, 2025). Last year, thousands of people filled Paterson Park for the second annual event, with performances by actor/musician Billy Bob Thornton, Loverboy, the Sam Roberts Band, and many others on three stages. The event also features a Kids’ World, artisan market, food trucks, seating areas, bars, and mini golf.

The George C. Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary, located at the tip Westham Island, is an 850-acre parcel of wetlands, marshes, and low dykes, and is home to 290 bird species. The sanctuary has many pathways, causeways, picnic areas, a lookout tower, and even a large covered warming hut.

On the south side of the Fraser River, the Spirit Trails is a local favourite as it rambles through a forest of black cottonwood filled with mythical creatures, woodland animals, and wizards — all carved by a local artist who has remained anonymous. Meander along wooden boardwalk trails at the Delta Nature Reserve at Burns Bog, the world’s largest domed peat bog. Trails lead you through a small portion of the 40-square-kilometre (15.4-square-mile) reserve.

Where to Dine: For a cup of java, check out Stir Coffee House. Besides great coffee and a cozy ambience, it has a long family history: In 1963, Johnny Lowe opened Ladner Grocery. In 2012, Johnny’s youngest son, Robert, bought it and converted it to a coffee house. If you’re considering a visit, pair your cup of java with the incredibly delicious banana bread or a beloved cinnamon roll.

Located in the heart of Ladner Village, Britannia Brewing Co. pours craft beer that has earned a following from its original location in Richmond. Favourites include its sours, as well as seasonal beers and tasting flights. The kitchen churns out tacos, burgers, and more inventive fare like crispy duck wings, crispy Humboldt squid, and corn ribs.

Housed in a barn showcasing century-old beams and wood gathered from heritage barns throughout Delta, Barnside Brewing creates beer using its own farm-grown ingredients. Paired with hearty fare and you are in for unique drinking-and-dining experience.

For some authentic rustic Italian fare, head to Il Posto in Ladner village. The casual eatery blends high-quality ingredients with small-town comfort within a cozy dining room. In warm weather, enjoy the patio on Delta Street that is surrounded by locally owned boutique shops.

Before there was the Four Winds Beach House, there was Four Winds Brewing. The company’s first location is off-the-beaten track but worth finding. It offers award-winning craft beers and elevated gastropub fare focused on handmade tacos, burgers, salad bowls, and seasonal tapas.

Play, eat, and stay at the 124-room Delta Vancouver Hotel. As part of the Marriott chain, it offers an outdoor pool, hot tub, fitness centre, and spa. The Match Eatery & Public House is a pub with the high-energy of a lively sports bar, where you can catch a game while enjoying good comfort food. Across from the pub, for a little excitement, try your luck at Cascades Casino Delta. The casino is home to 500 slot machines, eight live table games, and stadium-style gaming.