St. John’s Leaves You Salivating with Its Stellar Culinary Scene

I have to admit my expectations of St. John’s culinary scene would be similar to that of Nova Scotia or Prince Edward Island. There are similarities, of course. You can find clam chowder and lobster in the city but in these parts it’s cod, moose, and — surprisingly enough — fried chicken that rule the roost.

I toured with Melissa Hogan, marketing director of St. John’s Walking Tours to learn about the city’s food culture. It was my hope that Hogan could help me make sense of the delicious, yet at times confusing, culinary scene on Canada’s east coast. We met on the edge of George Street, where I was given the low-down on the Newfoundland food vibe and learned that we would be enjoying traditional food from small coastal communities that would include mostly pre-Confederation dishes.

Funny little tidbit: I learned that Mary Browns, an international chicken restaurant chain, got its start in St. John’s, launching its first location at the Avalon Mall in 1969. Hogan explained that the cross-country chain also has a restaurant in Northern Ireland and just opened another in Mexico.

The idea that a major fried chicken chain got its start in Newfoundland seemed strange but for a place perhaps best known for fish and chips, perhaps it is fitting. I let Hogan know that I wouldn’t have linked St. John’s to fried chicken success, but as I was about to find out Newfoundland and Labrador is a province that is full of culinary treats and unique surprises.

Moose Burgers from Celtic Hearth

Moose is a huge deal in the province so it makes sense that the tour would include a slider filled with a patty made from the ground game meat. I found the delicacy at the first stop on the tour, Celtic Hearth, a 24-hour-a-day gem nestled in the heart of downtown St. John’s.

“We really wanted to have moose meat on the tour. It was non-negotiable that we had to have it. We felt like we had to find somewhere that has moose on the menu because it’s that important as a cultural food,” said Hogan. “It’s something that’s important to us, but it’s not something that’s native to Newfoundland. They were only introduced to the island in 1904.”

Moose meat is rare because the moose hunts are in the fall and it’s not easy to find in grocery stores because it’s wild game. The provincial government has certain licenses that are issued to sell wild game to restaurants who prepare and serve it.

The slider was delicious and had a slight gamey taste that was not overpowering. It was served with bacon, onions and a moist bun. And since the establishment never closes, it’s the perfect place to visit if you are having a 3 a.m. moose craving.

The moose slider was only made for Hogan’s walking tour with travel media, so visitors won’t find it on the menu. The good news is you can purchase the Moose and Jam Burger, a delightful creation that is topped with brie cheese, bacon, rhubarb, pickles, and crispy onions.

Address: 300 Water St

Flakie from Rocket Bakery & Fresh Food

At Rocket Bakery & Fresh Food, which opened in 2011 in a big heritage building on St. John’s main street, the item to try was a Flakie, which is a provincial favourite.

So what in the world is a flakie? The best way to describe it is a sandwich with flaky puff pastry stuffed with raspberry jam and homemade cream. It was a good size and not overly filling, a truly delicious treat that was fluffy and not overly sweet, reminiscent of the popular snacks of the same name made by Quebec’s Vachon company.

Clearly not the best choice if you are trying to look like Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson but perfect if you are seeking a nice treat while exploring the city.

“We love the Flakie, and The Rocket does a really great homemade one,” said Hogan. “We had raspberry Flakies, and Newfoundlanders have an affinity for them. Not a lot of fruit grows here, but berries are really important to us.”

Address: 294 Water St

Toutons and Molasses from Bridie Malloy

We have all heard of the K-I-S-S rule — “Keep It Simple, Smarty”. Toutons and Molasses, a very popular dish in Newfoundland, is about as simple as it gets. Basically, we were served a paper cup of  molasses and fried bread dough.

Usually when I eat anything similar to a touton it’s with a dip of some sort — blue cheese or ranch come to mind — but the molasses was a refreshing touch. It’s a dish you can eat any time of day, but traditionally people enjoy their toutons with some fried bologna for breakfast. I could certainly see myself ordering this delicious treat regularly if I were living in St. John’s.

“You take the same dough that you would use to bake a loaf of bread, but you would pan-fry instead, and then top with molasses,” said Hogan during the tour stop at Bridie Molloy’s. “We wanted to have molasses on the tour. We have a love for molasses and rum here because our salt cod used to be traded with places like Jamaica. So we’d send down ships full of fish. They’d come back full of rum and molasses.”

Address: 5 George St

Fish Cakes from The Ship Pub & Kitchen

Cod is as popular in Newfoundland as lobsters are in Nova Scotia. The beloved fish is the best way to eat like a local, which is why I was champing at the bit to sink my teeth into some local cod cakes.

I didn’t have to wait long. Our next stop was the Ship Pub & Kitchen, where we were served mini fish cakes prepared the traditional way with salt cod and a pickle on top. They were moist and crispy, a lovely and healthy alternative to the fries, wings, and nachos that I was accustomed to.

Cod is a painful topic in these parts. In 1992, the Canadian government declared a moratorium on the Northern Cod fishery when it fell to 1% of historical levels because of overfishing. The moratorium had a profound impact on the province as approximately 37,000 fishermen and fish plant workers lost their jobs with the economic collapse of the cod fisheries.

Still, the fish that has been so important to Newfoundland’s heritage can still be found on menus and savoured by residents and fortunate visitors alike.

Address: 265 Duckworth St

Sweet Rock Ice Cream at Aunt Sarah’s Chocolate Shop

Last stop on the tour was ice cream from Sweet Rock.

“Their choices always change but there’s always either the vanilla or chocolate jam ice cream,” said Hogan. “And jam jams are a popular cookie produced by Purity Factories, which is celebrating their 100th anniversary this year.”

Jam jams are soft sandwich cookies with an apricot or apple jam on the inside. Sweet Rock dices them up to add to the ice cream. Do yourself a favour and leave the calorie-counter behind.

Address: 174 Water St

Unique Experiences Await Visitors

Obviously this is a tiny snippet of the unique dishes found in Newfoundland. Other provincial favourites that I was not able to try include colcannon, dough boys, pea soup, and cod tongues. While there are similarities to other Atlantic provinces, St. John’s has its own unique style — as these distinct dishes prove.

MORE ABOUT VISITING ST. JOHN’S

Destination St. John’s: destinationstjohns.com

Newfoundland & Labrador: newfoundlandlabrador.com

St. John’s Walking Tours: stjohnswalkingtours.com

Email: hello@stjohnswalkingtours.com

Phone: 1-709-730-5919