3 Luxury Resorts Lure You to the Alberta Mountains

Whether you’re seeing the majestic Rockies for the first time or the 20th, the mountain vistas will never fail to electrify. In fact, the northbound stretch of Alberta’s Highway 93, aka the Icefields Parkway, from Banff to Lake Louise and onward to Jasper is among the most scenic drives in the world. Each and every time I visit, I am rewarded with jewel-toned glacial lakes, cascading waterfalls framed by dramatic majestic mountainous terrain, and jagged snow-covered peaks. My most recent trip took place in the second week of April, during the heart of spring, and the enjoyment of being in these crown jewels of Canada’s national parks system was even greater.

During the shoulder season, the crowds were smaller and the traffic less busy, making the attractions more accessible and pleasant. Case in point: I pulled the car over during the 90-minute drive from Calgary’s airport to Banff in order to witness two mountain goats ascend a cliff that was nearly vertical. It was my first moment of awe on the week-long adventure in the Canadian Rockies. Here are some of the others:

Cave and Basin National Historic Site: Located minutes from the resort village, Cave and Basin is a natural marvel that is federally protected. In 1883, three railroad employees stumbled on the hot springs and were soon lounging in the warm soothing water. As I ventured into the cave, a guide informed me about its history.  In 1887, a bathhouse was built and for decades people enjoyed its natural health benefits, until the pool was permanently closed in 1994. The visit to the caves includes a chance to see the hot springs and the facility’s impressive museum. Vacay.ca Travel Tip: Be sure to wander behind the complex, where you will find two lovely walking trails: the Marsh Loop Trail, which travels across the park’s only natural river marsh, and the Sundance Canyon Trail, which meanders along the Bow River to a beautiful side canyon.

Two Jack Lake: With the backdrop of Mount Rundle, Two Jack Lake is a picturesque emerald green body of water that is one of the most photographed in the Canadian Rockies. In my opinion, there’s nothing more beautiful than a mirror-like mountain lake framed by towering peaks. Because there were so few tourists around, I really enjoyed the vastness, the peaceful calm, and the stillness.

After sitting in one of the “famous” Muskoka chairs (a feature of many Parks Canada properties), I walked along a shoreline trail that featured more amazing landscapes.

Jasper SkyTram: Mountains call to me from wherever I am.  So, when I had the chance to go on the Jasper SkyTram, reputedly the tallest and highest aerial tramway in Canada, I was all-in. In just seven minutes, I was whisked up to an elevation of 2,263 metres (7,425 feet). The wind blew hard and it was extremely cold, as winter lingered in the peaks. Initially, I was a little ambivalent about my ability to reach the summit of Whistlers Mountain. But I climbed up gingerly and when I reached the top, I felt an incredible sense of accomplishment. A hike of 1.4 km (0.86 miles) might not seem like a real climb, but given the conditions outside, it was daunting nonetheless. 

Icefields Parkway: The highway wends through a sweeping valley blanketed by mountains, waterfalls, and ancient glaciers. It links Lake Louise in the south with Jasper in the north. When the weather cooperates, travellers can stop at the Columbia Icefields to hop aboard an Ice Explorer (a massive bus with wheels designed to traverse the frozen tundra) that carries them onto the glacier. There, they can walk on ice and even taste glacier water from the flowing streams. A drawback of spring in the mountains is the weather can be blustery, as it was on my trip, so I could not make the stop. Still, the view of the peaks is magnificent. So much so, that they hardly seem real when you’re next to them.

Temple Mountain Spa, Post Hotel & Spa: The award-winning Temple Mountain Spa is a dreamy Zen sanctuary of health, wellness and beauty. My bespoke 90-minute collagen-infused facial massage was pure bliss, tailored specifically for my 60-something skin. As I settled into the warmth of the ultra cozy bed, I gave myself up to the ministrations of the spa manager who was the former lead trainer at the Chateau Lake Louise. Using France’s Biologique Recherche products and her expertise, my skin felt rejuvenated, firm, and hydrated. 

Where to Stay in the Canadian Rockies

Lodgings can elevate your travel experience or even be the sole reason for leaving home. I can attest. I was fortunate enough to get up close and personal to the splendour of three unique hotels in two of the Rockies’ most splendid national parks.

Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel: The Castle in the Rockies is nestled within the heart of Banff National Park and is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The grand dame has quite a storied past. After settling into my room, I met up with a historical tour guide for a deep dive into the past of one of Canada’s last surviving grand railway hotels.

Sir William Cornelius Van Horne, president of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) at the time, was said to have been so staggered by the beauty on his first visit to Banff that he proclaimed: “Since we can’t export the scenery, we’ll have to import the tourists.” In 1886, construction began on the 764-room hotel and resort. Sadly, two years later in 1888, the baronial wooden hotel burned down. In 1926, it was restored by CPR engineer John W. Orrock, establishing its current iconic facade.

Fairmont’s Gold-level rooms on the fifth floor overlook the mountains and provide a bird’s-eye view of just how extraordinary the hotel looked like from the outside. The Gold level is kind of like a hotel within a hotel. It comes with breakfast and happy-hour delectables.

Location: 405 Spray Avenue, Banff. Room Rates: There are a number of special spring offers. Average cost for a weekend night, based on double occupancy, is $839 (all prices in CAD).

Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge: Tucked into more than 700 acres of pristine wilderness on the shores of magnificent Lac Beauvert, the lodge is a beloved property with gorgeous views and a never-ending program of outstanding events. It too has a colourful railway background, with its origins hankering back to a series of structures that together became known  as “Tent City.” Developed by the now-defunct Grand Trunk Pacific Railway in 1915, the tents provided temporary housing for guests interested in exploring the newly created Jasper National Park.

In the UNESCO heritage site, the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (JPL) has grown to operate 442 guest rooms and cabins – 14 of which are known as Signature Cabins. Ever since its grand debut in 1921, the JPL has hosted all kinds of international luminaries in its most famous space, the 6,000-square-foot Outlook Cabin, which comes complete with a private butler team. Celebrities included Marilyn Monroe, Jimmy Stewart, Robert Mitchum, and Bing Crosby, as well as many members of the Royal British family over the generations. In 2018, newlyweds Meghan Markle and Prince Harry stayed in the ultra-luxurious cabin.

Although my lakefront cabin was smaller, it was no less inviting and came with daily morning visitors — white-tailed deer. Its western-inspired décor felt like I had just spent a weekend on a frills-free ranch. There were supple textures, warm neutrals, and unlike modern luxury, it was perfect. Many of the cabins are undergoing interior makeovers. I was fortunate to get a glimpse of what was soon to come.

I eked out a little more time in the cozy cottage by ordering room service for breakfast. Pouring that perfect cup of java before indulging in a delicious omelette was a wonderful ritual during the two-night stay.

Location: 1 Old Lodge Road, Jasper. Room Rates: Until May 15, guests can save 20% off a room rate for stays through to October 31, 2024. A junior suite lakeside cabin starts from $616 per night.

Post Hotel & Spa Lake Louise: On the banks of the pictorial Bow River Valley in another prime swath of Banff National Park, the Relais & Chateau-designated Post Hotel & Spa Lake Louise is a true luxurious mountain retreat tucked away from the hordes. I was there more than a decade ago when the Schwarz brothers, George and Andre, former ski instructors from Zurich, owned it. After 43 years, they sold it to the Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts (CRMR) in 2021.

Built by noted guide and packer, Jim Boyce, the  hotel was constructed with logs brought in from British Columbia. It opened its doors in 1942, however, because of the war it closed after only one season. It reopened in 1948. Today, the iconic hotel draws people from around the globe by preserving its illustrious heritage with its classic white-glove service and many country-glamour touches.

As I entered my stunning two-bedroom suite, there was a lovely fruit basket and bottle of chilled Prosecco placed near the wood-burning fireplace. In the evening, the turn-down service included a housemade cookie on the bedside. The timbered suite was just as chic-cozy as I remembered, with open-beamed ceilings and a deep soaker tub. With snow still blanketing the grounds, the elegant hotel couldn’t feel more magical.

Location: 200 Pipestone Road, Lake Louise. Room Rates: Daily rates start from $459.

Where to Dine in Alberta’s Mountains

The Dining Room at the Post Hotel & Spa delivers exceptional gourmet dining. On my visit, its carte du jour was filled with perfectly executed dishes: heirloom tomato salad, B.C. spot prawn ceviche, lemon and basil risotto (indulge, you won’t regret it), Pacific halibut (absolutely divine). Helmed by executive chef Hans Sauter, the much-lauded restaurant is touted as one of the most renowned restaurants in Canada. Do sample some of the world’s finest wines from the cellar, which offers more than 25,000 bottles.

Secreted away within the Post’s Dining Room restaurant is Fondue Stübli, a cozy chalet-inspired setting. While fondue is a quintessential cheese, I indulged in the Fondue Bourguignonne, rich chunks of beef tenderloin accompanied with several different sauces.. Prior to the fondue, I chose the organic butter leaf lettuce salad with a wonderfully flavourful mustard-chive dressing. PS: You’ll be served a four-course menu that includes a charcuterie board, appetizer, your choice of fondue, and dessert.

Located downstairs from the main dining room, the Post Hotel & Spa’s Outpost is an English-style pub that exudes loads of charm with its crackling fireplace, cozy seating, and a lunch menu that consists of elevated pub fare. I started off with a classic Caesar salad that did not disappoint and the not-to-be-missed Post smash burger on a housemade brioche bun with caramelized onion aioli — I wanted to eat it all but couldn’t.

MORE ROCKY MOUNTAINS COVERAGE

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Finding Wellness Among the Pines and Peaks of Banff

Starry, Starry Nights at Jasper’s Dark Sky Festival