A Cruise to Juno Beach on the 80th Anniversary of D-Day

The English Channel is calm today. Small waves curl softly on the gently sloping shore. It is a beautiful and peaceful setting. Yet, as I tread onto the sands of Juno, I hear in the sluggish murmur of the waves the harsh echoes of history, and experience a haunting sense of unease. I have a poignant sensation that I am treading on hallowed ground.

The Canadians on D-Day

In the early morning hours of June 6, 1944, this 10-kilometre (6.2-mile) stretch of coastline was far from calm and serene, but rather a whirlwind of chaos, as 14,000 Canadian troops jumped into the angry surf and charged ashore. The young Canadians were part of a D-Day landing force of more than 156,000 Allied soldiers. The Normandy invasion was launched earlier that morning at the American landing beaches, Utah and Omaha, to the west, but the Canadians assigned to take Juno Beach and the town of Bernières-sur-Mer had to wait for a rising tide to get across offshore shoals.

The Germans knew they were coming and had a brief window to ready themselves, and because it is a harbour outpost, the Canadian troops faced a beachfront well-fortified by enemy machine gun posts and gun batteries. The remnants of some of these Juno Beach bunkers remain today, scattered along the coastline, in ugly contrast to the serene beauty of the beach. In spite of dreadful casualties during the first wave, the Canadians succeeded. On that day, dubbed the “Longest Day,” the Canadians would suffer 1,074 casualties, including 359 killed. In all, 14,000 Canadians disembarked on Juno Beach, the battle of Normandy would claim more than 5,000 Canadian lives.

For Operation Overlord, as the Normandy invasion was known, the Canadians were assigned to the British sector, where fish monickers were used for the code names of landing sites. The British would land on “Sword” and “Gold”; the Canadians on “Jelly.” Well, a Jelly Beach landing just did not sound right, so Juno was chosen in its place — the ancient Roman goddess, the protector. And Juno has since become part of Canadian lore.

Touchstones of Remembrance

Canada House is a two-storey, timber-trimmed structure that has been featured in documentaries about World War II. It wasn’t called Canada House then, of course, but was the summer beach house of a Paris optometrist. On D-Day, it was full of heavily armed German soldiers who had requisitioned the home in 1940 when France fell to the invading Nazis. Within 30 minutes of hitting the beach, Canada House became the first home in Nazi-held Europe to be liberated.

West of Canada House and overlooking the beach, the Juno Beach Centre stands as a beacon of remembrance and education. Through interactive exhibits and personal accounts, the stylish museum offers a comprehensive look at the role played by Canadian forces during the landings and throughout the war, and demonstrates that, despite the destruction on D-Day, Juno Beach endures as a symbol of hope and resilience.

The Bény-sur-Mer Canadian War Cemetery is a place of solitude and reflection. It is also the most emotional tribute to the sacrifices made by Canadians in Northern France. Located a few kilometres inland from the beachhead, the patch of bucolic countryside would become the final resting place for 2,049 soldiers who fell during the Normandy campaign. On my visit, a warm breeze stirred the leaves of the majestic maple trees that stand like sentries over the gravesites. Walking among the headstones, I was struck by the sheer scale of the sacrifice and the profound sense of loss. Reading the inscriptions under a carved Canadian flag on the headstones, I was deeply moved. The soldiers came from every corner of Canada, plucked away from families, off farms or from city jobs. Many were just kids, still in their teens. I stopped to contemplate one who was but 17 years of age.

Cruising Through History

My own visit to the Normandy beaches had me feeling more than a little guilty. My journey was a whole lot easier than what those soldiers went through. My pilgrimage was also by water, not across the angry English Channel but on a comfortable river cruise up the tranquil Seine. I had embarked in Paris on AmaWaterways’ luxurious AmaDante for a venture north to the French coast. The romantic Seine flows through idyllic scenery and a whole lot of history on its journey to the sea: past prehistoric encampments, ancient Roman towns, Viking strongholds, medieval chateaus, monastic abbeys, and beautiful gardens, before reaching the coast and the D-Day battlegrounds.

After departing from the City of Light, our elegant ship docked in Les Andelys, within walking distance of the Chateau-Galliard, ramparts built high on limestone cliffs overlooking the Seine by Richard the Lionheart in the 12th century. Gaillard means strong and fearless, and the castle up on the hillside was supposed to be impregnable. Richard, we learned, was killed in battle before his castle was completed.

In Vernon, to honour the 150 Anniversary of the Impressionist Movement, I took one of the ship’s many bikes and pedalled to Giverny to experience the colourful splendour of Claude Monet’s magnificent gardens. I took in the quiet ponds, water lilies, Japanese bridges, and graceful willow trees immortalized in his paintings. Strolling through the vibrant gardens you feel like you are walking into one of Monet’s artworks.

Next port was Rouen, home to some of the world’s most important moments in history, art, architecture, and culture. In the Middle Ages, Rouen was considered one of the largest and wealthiest cities throughout medieval Europe. In the “city of 100 spires,” as Victor Hugo characterized the capital of Upper Normandy more than a century ago, Monet lived in an apartment across from the Cathedral of Notre Dame, and Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in the main market square in 1431, and thus martyred. I biked into the Medieval Quarter, known for its lovely half-timbered homes and buildings, public gardens and historic streets.

Sailing northward we reached the coast, and the charming seaside town of Honfleur, which inspires visitors today the same way as it did the great Impressionists. Though many towns and cities in northern France had been decimated by their involvement in two world wars, the beautiful cities of Rouen and Honfleur had, for the most part, avoided the bombs.

Eternally Thankful

While my week-long voyage down the Seine from Paris was splendid — it was the opportunity to visit the Normandy coast and beaches that had enticed me onboard. We moored in the coastal town of Le Harve and set off with our knowledgeable guide to Juno. Tributes honouring the role Canadian soldiers played can be found across the Normandy countryside, from Canadian flags that flutter in shoreline towns to memorials in the villages and on the bridges that were taken and held, from solitary wreaths laid on a stretch of sand to the beauty of a well-tended cemetery or the sad solitude of a garden at a former abbey.

Our last Normandy stop is at a quiet garden in the Abbaye d’Ardenne, just outside the city of Caen. The Abbey served as headquarters for an SS commander, Kurt Meyer. It was here where some Canadians captured in action in the days after D-Day were detained. On June 7, 11 Canadians were picked out from among the prisoners and murdered. The next day, seven more Canadian prisoners-of-war were shot.

The legacy of the heroic Canadian soldiers will live forever here in Normandy, remembered in the cemetery, at the abbey, and etched into the sands of Juno Beach. Their bravery and sacrifice made on D-Day 80 years ago, makes a visit to these distinguished beaches an unforgettable experience, both evocative and sobering, and one that makes me eternally thankful.

MORE ABOUT VISITING JUNO BEACH

AmaWaterways Cruises: Journeying along the Seine River from Paris to Normandy aboard the AmaDante provided a wonderful means of experiencing Northern France and the D-Day Beaches, and their Normandy tour offerings allowed a choice between visiting the Canadian or U.S. beaches and sites. There were 30 fellow Canadians aboard, including a group of 22 from Nova Scotia, who donned red berets for their Juno Beach visit. An onboard evening speaker before the Normandy visit gave a fascinating and insightful talk on the history of World War II.

The AmaDante is a smaller ship (maximum 140 guests), which lends itself to an intimate experience, and the friendly staff and excellent guides exceeded expectations. My accommodations included a French balcony, for a great view of the passing scenery; medieval towns, vineyards, cathedrals, and castles. The amenities and food offerings on the ship were exquisite, and, if you like to stay active, there is a fleet of complimentary bicycles on board, so you can join guided bike tours or go discover things on your own during shore excursions. The price of the 7-night Paris to Normandy itinerary starts at under $4,000 CAD per guest in the off-season.

For more on pricing and itineraries, visit www.amawaterways.com.